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Car Buying Tips Archives

New Car Buying Tips & Guide

polizei auto
Car Buying Tips
Image by Auswandern Malaysia
Police car (Proton Waja) seen in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Kereta polis, Polizeiauto

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Buying a new car has been regarded as a major investment. Owning a new car of your choice not only brings you pride but also enables you to own a car coupled with features that exactly you were looking for. Less maintenance, good resale value, extensive warranty coverage, availability of insurance, law protection, and roadside assistance, are just few among many of the benefits of owning a new car. Further, auto financing loans at low interest rates are even now available for buying a new car. In short, benefits derived from buying a new car are truly endless.


Benefits are even higher when you opt to buy such leading edge cars produced by companies such as Mercedes Benz. Owning a Mercedes Benz car allows you to enjoy benefits such as driving safety, excellent design, driving dynamics, passenger protection, environment friendliness, luxurious as well as most sophisticated features, and styling options.


No matter you are looking for a typical car or one with leading edge facilities as well as features, buying a new car is quite a daunting process. In fact, careful planning is necessary to choose and buy a new car. But, a new car could be owned wisely, provided if you are ready to do some leg work.


First of all, it is important to ask yourself certain questions such as which car would best go with your lifestyle, what is your budget, EMI rate if you opt to take car loans, cars available in this segment, whether your choice is sedan, SUVs (sports utility vehicles), or compact car, features that should be included in your car, and insurance options available with your vehicles. After having asked a series of questions yourself, the next step is to identify the car you would like to own. Once you have done this, calculate the total amount including tax you will have to pay for your new vehicle. Then read reviews written by real users on the car you have chosen. After this, take steps to locate the dealers.


When you search for a dealer, take time to go in for the best deal. It is always advisable to go for a vehicle attached with attractive incentives as well as rebates. Further, you should be cautious of hidden incentives. Similarly, in case, if you are going to take loan in order to finance for your new car, then calculate the amount as well as interest you will have to pay. No matter you choose to buy which type of car, it is important to check the features available within the car as well as optional fitting available. Also, take into consideration factors such as safety, service network, and mileage.


In addition, prior to buying your dream car, it would be better to read reviews written by real users as well as experts in the industry. It would be even better if you could make a study in order to compare the vehicle you have chosen with other cars in order to check its added benefits. It is also important to analyze such key aspects of a vehicle as its seating capacity, engine power, and technical specifications.


When comes to financing, special care must be taken, especially if you are going to take loan in order to finance your new car. It would be better to take a loan with the lowest interest rates. Likewise, ask for incentives that the manufacturer or company offers. Further, it is vital to undertake an investigation with regard to its service contract as well as extended warranty. Since auto insurance is inevitable, it is advisable to review insurance policies from different insurance companies in order to take right decision. Also, compare the insurance rates.


Above all, don’t miss to take a test drive, in order to ensure whether the vehicle you have chosen has all the characteristics as well as comforts that you are looking for. Additionally, closely check its interiors and exteriors, apart from checking its noise, drive comfort, braking, and power acceleration.

As one of the world’s most exciting and prestigious brand, Mercedes-Benz Hong Kong offers luxury passenger cars and commercial vehicles extensive choice of Vito, Sprinter, Viano, Actros, Axor and Atego to the customers in Hong Kong and Macau.

Article from articlesbase.com

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Car Buying Tips For eBay Motors

There are a lot of perks associated with car shopping online with eBay Motors, including the buyer being able to set the price. In addition, automobile insurance is more affordable on used cars and, with an auction, the buyer pays in full and there is no hassle of a monthly payment. If you do plan to shop for your next car on eBay Motors, take a moment to consider the following tips to help get you started on the road to car shopping success.

First and foremost, check with your car insurance company before deciding to purchase a specific car on eBay Motors or anywhere else. If the cost of car insurance is a major deciding factor, then you will want to be clear about the costs before you commit to purchasing. In addition, it may be helpful to know that SUVs carry a higher insurance cost than that of a car. With that being said, the cost of insurance will be less on a used car than if that same model were purchased new.

Request a CarFax report from the seller and, if they do not have one, request the VIN number so that you may obtain a copy directly. This report is something that every potential car owner needs to have. Why? Because it contains the number of previous owners that a particular car has had, information regarding whether or not the car has ever been involved in a flood or other accident and whether or not the title is clear. There is also more information detailing a car’s history included, which is why no automobile should ever be purchased without a CarFax report.

Before deciding that your car of choice is the deal of a lifetime, take a moment to research it’s value according to Kelly Blue Book. This company is one of the most respected in the industry and instantly provides new or used car values directly from their website. After entering specific information relating to a car, individuals will receive an instant value assessment according to the information provided. This tool will help all potential car owners to find out whether or not a deal is too good to be true or just not too good at all.

Take a moment to consider the car’s fuel mileage. With gasoline prices what they are, it is important to think about how many miles you will get from one gallon of gasoline. The more mileage you have per gallon, the less you will end up spending in gasoline. This is definitely something to think about!

When shopping for cars on eBay Motors, take special notice of the mileage. This is a good indication of how much life the car has left in it or whether you are buying a car that has seen it’s best days. A great number of cars on eBay Motors have very low mileage, but others are well over 100,000.

As a final thought to shopping for cars on eBay Motors, take a moment to make sure that the car you ultimately select is one that will best fit your lifestyle. If you have a large family, for instance, a compact car probably isn’t the best choice. You will need additional space to make sure that everyone is comfortable and to make it ideal for long road trips. At the same time, a single person may be more than happy in a smaller car because of the simple fact that they use much less gasoline than an SUV or similar automobile. When shopping for cars, either new or used, it’s all about lifestyle and which one best fits yours.

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Four Essential Car Buying Tips

Car Buying Tips
by nimboo

We Americans like to buy a car at the dealership in one afternoon, and the dealerships try very hard to make us think that is possible and even smart. But it’s not. Realize how big a purchase a car is. And it is complicated.

Buying a car is the second-largest purchase most people make after buying a home. When you buy a home, think about all the help you have: you have a broker to help you find the best home for you, and a mortgage broker to help you find the best financing. And an inspector to make sure the house is safe. Sometimes you also have an attorney to make sure the contract is fair, and a title company makes sure the title is clear before you pay for the home. But when you buy a car, there is not one person there to help you. And the dealers want you to THINK you can waltz in to the dealership and buy a car from start to finish in an afternoon… and sure, you can, but you will pay much much more if you do it that way. Here are four tips to give you an advantage:

1. Make at least one trip to the dealership JUST to look around and drive the cars. Promise yourself you will not buy that first time, no matter what. Why? So that you can go home and look up information on the internet, including dealer cost, safety ratings, option prices, and any manufacturer to dealer incentives that the dealer has certainly not told you about!

2. Know what you can afford before you visit the dealership to buy! This means talk to your personal banker or credit union officer before going to the dealership. Why? Some dealerships might actually WANT you to sign on for a more expensive car than you can afford so that you will then default on your loan and they will repossess the car.

3. Whenever the finance manager calculates something, insist that he show you the calculation. Why? The easiest place for dealerships to take more money from you is in the monthly payment. It is VERY common for dealers to increase monthly payments by just a few dollars, even per month, over about a five year period is like giving the dealership 0 extra on the spot.

E.G. If you tell the salesman you can afford a payment of 0 per month, he might find a deal for you in which the payment works out to 0 per month. But instead of telling you that, he might tell you that he has “great news”!! – - that your payment is down to 0. What happens to the difference between the lender” 0 per month and the 0 the dealer is charging you? It goes right into the dealer’s pocket, and you will never know it unless you Len how to run the calculation yourself, or at least run it by your banker. How much would a dealership make, taking in an extra per month for five years, on a loan with an interest rate of 3.9%? About 0. It is next to impossible to figure this kind of thing out without a financial calculator, or a friend with a financial calculator. But it’s worth the trouble!

4. Write down everything you learn about the car, from the internet, magazines, and especially from the salesman. Why? Doing this keeps everybody honest, and literally “on the same page”-YOUR page! Your salesman will see that you are writing down everything he says, and he will be less inclined to lie, or to try to change information on you later on. This tip is all about staying in control.

Information on black wasps can be found at the Eliminate Wasps site.

Article from articlesbase.com

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Used Cars Buying Tips You Can Use Now

Getting ready for the NYIAS
Car Buying Tips
Image by Island Capture Photography
I’ll try my best to travel light since we’re also bringing my under-used Hi8 camcorder. Tina bought the tickets last week and the show runs from April 6 – 15. I’m still sick but Tina is only available tomorrow and on Thursday which, unfortunately, is predicted to rain so tomorrow is our only choice.

The weather isn’t helping any… I didn’t want to bring my jacket but the weather has not improved yet.

Finding good used cars can be a frustrating, especially if you are not familiar with auto-mechanics. Where do you go to first? Do you go to a used car garage? Look through the want ads? Explore by word of mouth? Search the World Wide Web?

Firstly, when looking to buy used cars, I suggest that you get an idea of what you want. I once asked a car mechanic what he will suggest, and he said that Honda Civics and Toyota Carollas are what he recommends. Everyone has his or her different idea what they like for a good used car. So you must decide what type of car you want. Narrow it down to at least four types.

Then, it is recommended you do a blue book search. Visit www.KBB.com and get a rough idea of what these cars are valued at. Get the values for a variety of years.

Armed with the highest amount you can spend, and as clear an idea as possible of what kind of used car you want, and what the blue book values are, it is time to begin your search. I suggest you look in online bulletin boards such as craigslist.org or autoweb.com.

When you go to check out the car, if you have a friend who knows a lot about cars who’s willing to come too, that is of course ideal. Otherwise, it is suggested you go to a mechanic to get the car inspected. Do not underestimate the importance of this step. Yes, it is inconvenient, but you do not want to end up with a lemon!

What many people do not know is that some mechanics will give you a deal on inspecting the used car you hope to buy, especially if you promise to take it to them if it needs work. Ask them about this. It could not hurt. They may have a special offer, where the cost of your initial car inspection ends up going towards the car fixing. In short, wheel and deal with you mechanic. You have nothing to lose.

If you do not take the step of going to a mechanic, then your seller must have accurate records of all labor and parts. It is highly important that they changed the timing belt for instance within the last 40,000 miles.

The best advice I have is this: if you trust the person you are buying from, you are more likely to get good used cars. I have bought several used cars and each one came from someone who kept accurate records.

One of the best tips to find a used car is to locate retired couples or elderly folks who are selling their car. If they are selling because the want to, not because they need to, congratulations, you have found your used car!

Joshua Poyoh is the creator of http://www.2donatemycar.com where you can find out more information on Used Car Donation Guide

Article from articlesbase.com

Buy Cheap Cars For Sale ? Cheap Car Buying Tips

Week 4.
Car Buying Tips
Image by ben.seid.
This week was uhhh…interesting. yeah.

I didn’t do much of anything last Sunday (surprise surprise). Eric did go to lunch with us and then to our house after church. We played Wii for a bit before he left.

This week had a general overcast of suck because my parents got mad at me for my grades. School is getting extremely old extremely quickly.

I stayed after school a lot last week to do homework/because I missed the bus. I’m sure the cheerleaders thought that I was creeping after 3 days of being there. They hold their practices in the cafeteria, which is virtually the only place to go after school. -_-

We developed our film this week in photo. I’m one of the only ones who actually correctly developed all of his negatives. I only shot 18. I’m happy with them, but they’re really grainy for 400 film that was shot in high sun. I probably won’t upload any of them.

Today was my birthday party with my extended family. It was fun. We mostly talked and played Wii the entire time, which was okay with me because we weren’t playing mind-numbing games. We were still able to laugh and chat while playing Wii Sports and Just Dance. I only received money, which is totally okay with me because I now have a total of 0. Most of that will go to a Yashica 124g.

Also, my sister’s boyfriend let me borrow his Canon EOS Rebel 2000 for basically as long as I want. It’s a much newer SLR than my Minolta and my Fujica. It has some pretty nice features like auto-focus, built-in flash, auto advance, auto rewind, DoF preview, etc. It’s going to spoil me. One dislike I have is that the lens doesn’t have a split-circle focusing screen for manual focusing, which might make for a difficult adjustment. Overall, I’m pretty pleased with it.

If I have money leftover from the Yashica (recommendations, suggestions, tips on which are welcomed), then I’ll probably buy a lens or two for my Minolta, a light meter, maybe a prime for the Canon, and a shutter remote.

Three things:
1) I need to start being more creative with my photos. Too many of them were taken in/near my house.
2) I need a license and maybe a car so I can actually go places.
3) I reeeaaallly would appreciate some tips on my photos, films to buy (135 and 120), medium format cameras that might be better in my price range than a 124g, or any input that you might have. Please?

This is my sister, Jessica. I had yet to take a picture for the week last night, so I asked her to model for me.

These days, our society has become more prone to the luxurious life. People want to live with all the comforts, big houses, bungalows, good food and wine, and most of all nice cars.

Cars have become so easy to buy these days that every plebian can own one. It is no more considered a status symbol of the rich and wealthy. There are many companies who sell cars at a low price. These may be second-hand, but still they are worth the price.

There are many places you can look for to buy cheap cars for sale. Car dealerships, car auctions, and classifieds all do this business. Usually, cheap cars are used cars. One way to buy cheap used cars is through the internet.

There are a lot of resources available and only little knowledge is required. Another place to find cheap cars is government seized car auctions. Here, most of the cars are cheap and it depends on the other customers. The person with the highest bid will get the car.

However, regardless of where you are buying the cheap car, it is very important to do the necessary research first. The dealership should be a reliable one and make sure to ask around to find out if there was any fraud associated with that specific dealership.

Also, the car should be economical to you and profitable. All the paperwork should be done to avoid any surprises later.

There are many important things to be kept in mind when buying a cheap car. The major concerns to watch out for are the equipment inside the car, mileage, and warranty. To avoid having any regrets later, a thorough research must be done before buying a cheap car.

There are several questions to ask yourself when buying a cheap used car.

Firstly, how much is the budget? Under this, insurance, any repairs, maintenance costs should be included.

Secondly, what type of car do you wish to buy? The car should suit your lifestyle and image. It’s important to gather information from friends, family, and colleagues.

Next, how much mileage is on the car? Many used car dealers do fraud by manipulating the odometer to read lesser number of miles. Also, make sure to take the car on a test drive.

Make sure the engine starts immediately without any weird sounds and test out the steering, brakes etc. All these tips must be kept in mind when buying cheap cars on sale.

If you want to learn how to buy discount cars, check out Dr Suzanne Gudakunst Top Secret Car Secret guide. You will learn how she managed to buy luxury cars consistently at 30 to 50% off the market price.

Article from articlesbase.com

Car Buying Tips
by Eadey

“Help! I’m in a dilemma. There are numerous cars to choose from in the advertisements but which one should I get? They range from luxurious cars to economical sedans, family vans to utility vehicles, sports cars to trucks, and the like. They’re just so many and they all look grand”.

Do you have similar problems with the one above? Do not despair. Allow me then to give you some friendly advice you may find helpful in choosing the right car for yourself. You don’t have to be a car aficionado or an expert. You just have to know the basics. I will share with you the essentials when considering buying a car whether it is brand new or second-hand. Then you can work your way around your “wish-list”. Okay. So here goes.

Before anything else, ask yourself, “Why do I need a car”? Know your lifestyle. You need it because it will take your kids and the neighbor’s kids to school after which you can do your groceries and other errands. You need it to get to school or to work. You need it because you are always on the go. Or you just simply want a car. Whatever! Your answers can vary, but the most important thing is that you know what you need. This can help you pick the type of car you will buy. If you are a family person and you do errands, it is useful to get a big car like say a van. But if you just drive by yourself to school or work then it is best to get a sedan. Or if your budget allows it you can get a sports car or a luxury car. By knowing what you need in a car will make the tips I will impart even more sensible and practical.

Decide on your budget. This is perhaps the most acknowledged factor most people consider when buying almost anything. It just has to be in the top 3 of your list. Knowing your budget means setting a limit. It sets a maximum value of the cars you can acquire. Do not worry because this is not a bad thing. It helps you actually in planning your finances and loan. Make sure though that your budget is parallel to the type of car your getting based on your needs. But if the type of car you need will overboard your budget then trim it down to one notch and consider other essentials.

The third tip can differ for many but nonetheless, it is important. Settle on three brands with the same type to compare and contrast. It is important to have comparisons. More or less, it is priced in comparable range. Putting competing brands side by side will give you an idea what is being offered in the car’s performance, safety, services, parts and accessories, and other vital features. This allows you to weigh things and evaluate the best car that suits your needs and wants especially if you are very keen with the car.

Having said the third advice, get to know more about the car inside and out. Familiarize yourself. I’m not just talking of the marketing information the advertisements provide or what the dealer and sales executive have told you about the car and the company. Read car reviews. Listen to what other customers, who actually bought the car, have to say about the car and the company with an open mind. Names of the brands are quite reputable. Look them up. Better yet, go to a designated dealer closest to you and do a test drive. It is the customer’s privilege after all.

Finally, after all that planning and decision-making ask for a good deal from you sales executive. There’s no harm in asking, right? Some dealers offer its customers discounted prices, free items and services offered and the like. Avail these offers. You will find out how the company values its customers. Buying a car is not just a one-time trip to the dealer. It’s not like “you bought it, we sold it, end of story”. The value of your money does not end with the car; it goes on with the after-sales service. Now that’s a good deal!

Remember these 5 sensible tips. These are the essentials in buying a car. They are simple yet practicable. Happy hunting!

Lee Dobbins writes for http://carbuying.subjectmonster.com where you can learn more about how to come out ahead when buying a car.

Article from articlesbase.com

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Hybrid Car Buying Tips

Top Gear 3.10 Clubsport
Car Buying Tips
Image by Eadey
My car AGAIN! This time from the rear. I love the power shots when I photograph cars especially the VE with its ominous rear end. I have lowered it 2 inches, deleted the fuel cap, chromed up the wheels and the exhaust tips, tinted the windows more plus the tail lights are darker and removed reflections from the fence and a bush. I added the sky from a previous "Clouds" photoshoot. I have to do that here as taking pics and hoping for clouds is a minor miracle around here!! The wheels are Mansory 5 spokes as used on German Supercars and are valued at 25 thousand dollars a set. SO, I wont be buying them any time soon!! They were gold in colour, but I prefer them Shadow Chrome, so I changed them.

Know Your Hybrid MPG

Make sure your hybrid is going to reward you at the pump. Just because a car is slapped with a hybrid label it does not necessarily mean it is fuel efficient. Many hybrid cars only receive 26 mpg or less in the city. That is considerably less than the most fuel efficient hybrids which get better than 40 mpg. If you factor in the rising price of gas, over time the difference could add up to thousands of dollars.

Most Fuel Efficient Hybrid Cars:

2010 Toyota Prius – 51/48 2010 Ford Fusion – 41/36 2010 Mercury Milan – 41/36 2009 Honda Civic – 40/45 2010 Honda Insight – 40/43

*city/highway

Choose a Hybrid with Low Emissions

Other than helping the environment choosing a lower emissions hybrid is an important consideration because it determines how much of a Federal and State tax credit you can claim. Usually the lower the emission standard the higher the credit will be. But buyer’s be aware, the Federal government discontinues the tax credit for hybrids who’s manufacturer has surpassed 60,000 in total hybrid sales. The Prius is a prime example of this phase out. Because Toyota has surpassed the 60,000 mark the Prius no longer qualifies for the Federal credit.

Make sure to ask the dealer which emission standard the hybrid car you are thinking about purchasing qualifies as and whether or not it is still eligible for the Federal incentive. While you are at it ask them how much of an incentive the State is offering as each State’s hybrid tax credit varies.

List of hybrid cars that qualify for the hybrid tax credit.

Consider Battery Reliability

Choose a car whose battery is proven reliable and has a long standing warranty period. A hot topic amongst hybrid owners and enthusiasts alike is the reliability and replacement cost of the battery used to power hybrid vehicles. Replacing a hybrid battery is very expensive, around ,000 depending on the car, however they are made to last the lifetime of the vehicle and most manufacturers offer an 8 to 10 year warranty.

Alert: Unlike conventional car batteries a hybrid battery cannot be jumped. So if the battery dies you are forced to replace it.

Test Drive for Performance

Common complaints associated with popular hybrid cars is they lack in performance. A hybrid that gets great fuel mileage is probably not going to win any races or feel like they handle corners on rails. These vehicles are built for efficiency not speed and most are equipped with 4 cylinder engines. There are exceptions, like the Lexus GS hybrid, but they get less than favorable gas mileage and the M.S.R.P.’s are usually quite-a-bit higher.

Article from articlesbase.com

Car Buying Tips & Tricks

Cliffs of Moher
Car Buying Tips
Image by world of jan
We payed 8 euros to park the car to walk five minutes in the wind and rain to see this for a minute and then walk back again. The information centre was extra. Tip: buy a postcard.

Purchasing a new car is the best idea to fulfill your drive imagination. There are different car dealerslocated in the United States. A good research on the internet about different manufacturers will help a lot. It will give you precise information about the car you wish to buy. Car dealers information is available on the internet which can be accessed directly. Comparing two or more cars is also possible. You need to check the car according to your requirements and after comparing you can find the best car. Make sure you know the features that you are looking forward to in a car. There are different features which might attract you. Before approaching the dealer you need to know the features that you need in the car.

 

Never be hasty when it comes to selecting an asset like automobile. You need to keep cool when it comes to purchasing one of the best cars in the world. Keep your options open while buying a car. There are chances where you might get a better car than the planned one. It might be cheaper or costlier than the car you wish to buy, all you need to know is the car should satisfying your requirements.

 

There are different ways through which you can buy a new car. You need to find out the payment method at car dealers. Some of them accept hard cash while some others have loan facility. If you are thinking of buying the car through loan then you need to find the best auto loan. Insurance is one of the important points that you need to keep in mind after purchasing a car. Make sure the car is insured completely. Commission is also involved when it comes to purchasing a new car, you need to keep the cost in mind. Higher the car cost, higher will be the commission amount.

Clint White provides detailed information about Car Dealers in America. To know more about Car Dealers in America check out the Car Dealers.

Article from articlesbase.com

Buying a baby car seat is important to consider the safety of the child. Buy a baby car seat with tips from a baby store manager in this free video on child care. Expert: Joie Tamkin Contact: www.babyearth.com/ Bio: Joie Tamkin is the public relations manager for Baby Earth, an online environmentally friendly baby equipment store. Filmmaker: Drew Noah
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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Double Yellow
Car Buying Tips
Image by jovike
from London Councils’ advice on ‘Parking Your Car in London’:

Tips on avoiding parking tickets:
Do not return to a meter or pay and display bay and buy more parking time.

Do not assume there is free parking on Bank Holidays, Sundays or in the evenings -in some areas parking restrictions apply at evenings and weekends.

Do not park in permit holders only bays during restricted times.

Do not assume it is safe to park in an area because others have parked there or because someone else says it’s OK.

If in doubt ask a parking attendant or traffic warden.

If there are no signs on yellow lines, check for controlled zone entry signs

London is a thriving commercial and residential area – consequently parking controls are necessary to maintain traffic flow and protect amenity.

There is a shortage of parking spaces in many places, however, London has an extensive public transport network. Using car parks is often preferable to street parking as many roads are reserved for resident permit holders only.

When parking on the street we recommend you follow the guidance set out in this leaflet. If you do, you should not receive any parking tickets, nor be towed away or wheel clamped.

Do not expect to see any extra warning signs to indicate you are in an area with towing-away or clamping in force.

Remember, park with care in London as tickets cost up to £80 and towing away an extra £125.

Purchasing used cars is a risky endeavor, and we say this because there is no way to assess a vehicle properly. We do not want to end up wasting our time, effort and money while selecting a used car to buy. However, this does not have to be the case, what we need are good analysis skills with some patience as well.

Used vehicles are often the best values we can find in the automotive market either offline shops or online auction sites, especially for late models. Not only are prices lower than comparable new cars, but ownership expenses such as collision insurance and taxes are lower, having taken the biggest hit in depreciation.

But first, we must make sure the car specs are what we want. People who look for used cars without having an idea usually end up with something they do not need. Make sure to get something that suits our needs such as long distance travelling, family and so on.

Do not buy the cheapest car. In the used car market, the cheapest does not mean the best. Without our acknowledgment, the car might have been involved in a major accident, require extensive repairs or extended with all the warranty features. It is best to get something in an excellent condition, even with a heftier price tag.

We should also learn more about the car’s previous owner was he/she a careful driver or was the car used for rental? Any clues on the history can tell us whether the car was abused or involved in a serious accident. If so, stay away from the vehicle!

701Panduan, a Malaysia online business directory with comprehensive details with company info, Malaysia city guides and maps.

Log on to search for Malaysia used car dealers list and get free information on used car buying tips today.

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Used Car Buying Tips From Expert

Cars Autos Malaysia – Naza Kia Citra
Car Buying Tips
Image by WohinAuswandern
Kia is distributed by the NAZA Group in Malaysia. The Kia Carens is called Naza Citra and is sold for RM 69,000 RM.

Die Marke Kia wird in Malaysia von der NAZA Gruppe vertrieben. Der Kia Carens wird hier unter der Bezeichnung Naza Citra für ca. 69.000 RM verkauft.

How to retire or live as an expat in Malaysia and get to know everything about the "Cost Of Living In Malaysia"? Where to shop, the salaries in Malaysia, how to pay your utility bills or book satelite TV and much more useful information. Save with the tips in "How To Rent & Buy Real Estate In Malaysia", or "Visa Malaysia"! "Here you get the best insider guides for expats in Malaysia"

Visit the 11 best places to live and retire in the world and get a free ebook only at: "How To Immigrate – Guide To Moving Overseas"

Erfahren Sie alles was Sie als Ausländer in Malaysia wissen sollten, von Apartment mieten und Hauskauf, über Einkaufen, Auto versichern, die beste internationale Schule für Ihre Kinder, wie es um das malaysische Gesundheitswesen bestellt ist, wie Sie Ihre Rechnungen bezahlen, oder sich in Malaysia selbstständig machen, bis zur Eröffnung eines Bankkontos und vieles mehr…. Hier bleiben keine Fragen unbeantwortet.
Insider Informationen, Beispiele, weiterführende Links, Übersetzungen, erklärende Fotos.
Erfahren Sie alles über das Leben in Malaysia, holen Sie sich noch heute die ausführlichen deutschsprachigen Ratgeber:
"Insider Ratgeber zum Auswandern und Leben in Malaysia"

Everyone desires to own a dazzling car that will be a head turner. Unfortunately, because of the hard economic times that we are into nowadays, not all of us can afford to have a luxury car. Despite that, we can still get a good car for a lesser price if we know how to choose a used car that will last us long. Used car can be as good as new ones and with these tips, we hope that for almost half the price, you will feel that you snagged for yourself a new one.

When buying a car, make sure that you consider dealers or stores that are credible. This is to protect you from scams. It will be better if you will buy a used car from a person whom you trust. Nevertheless, there are many reputable stores and car dealers wherein you can buy a used car that looks and performs as a brand new one.

The first thing that you have to check in the used car is the exterior of the car. Vehicle inspection should always start with this. Check the car if there are scratches, cracks, and dents. See if there are obvious previous paint work, chipped paint, and broken glasses of the windows. Also check the condition of the hood and the tires. While these problems can be easily remedied, it somehow reflects the way the car was used before and it can warn you that the interior might be worse.

Next in the motor vehicle inspection is the interior. Feel and check if the upholstery is in good condition and if it has tears, burns, and food stains. If there are electrical components, check if they are working. The radio, locks, lights, and the windows should be in working condition. The functionality of the standard necessity in a car must also be considered like the emergency brake, which is the most important, the side mirrors and the remote fuel cover. There must also be a clear vehicle identification number. Last but not the least, the air-conditioning system and the heater must be working too.

Next, you should also do a car inspection for safety. This is done by looking at the engine and the machine of the car. There must be no fluid leaks and the level of each needed fluid is in an appropriate measurement. The battery must be well-encased and there is no corrosion. Unusual engine noise should also be absent and the horses and belts are working. If there is a mark of a previous collision in the support area of the radiator core, then you should have to think twice about buying the car.

Of course, a motor vehicle inspection is not complete with a test drive. After you are done with the things that are mentioned above, ask the seller if you can do a test drive. A test drive must not be refused for that is one of your rights as the buyer.  Important things that you should check are the acceleration, steering, brakes, and transmission. The odometer functionality and the engine noise should also be verified too.

If you are still in doubt, there are some auto inspection services that you can avail of to ensure that you get your money’s worth. Just be meticulous in choosing a car because it will be your companion in the travels of your life. After all, you are what you drive.

I am a professional Search Engine Marketer for AiM Mobile Inspection . My objective is to create effective search marketing campaigns to gain higher qualified traffic volume leading to sales and leads. Maintain an increased presence in search that reinforces branding efforts and other Internet Marketing initiatives.

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Day 274/365 – Auto Accident Abstract
Car Buying Tips
Image by Kevin H.
This is neither my car nor my accident. I sold my Jeep about nine years ago and let my driver’s license expire around eight years ago. Now I’m strictly a passenger and a ride bummer (bum-a-rider?). I passed by this car parked in the lot of my apartment building when I ambled home tonight after my post-prandial stroll.

I’ve only been involved in one serious car accident, thankfully. Less than a year after I bought my Jeep, I drove it home to Missouri from Norfolk, Virginia when I was on leave from the Navy. While I was home, my Pops took my Jeep over to the regular mechanic he’d used since he was a hot-rodding teenager to get it fine tuned. It was running better than it ever had.

On the morning I left to drive back to Norfolk it started snowing lightly. The roads were fine. However, the bridges were not. When I drove across a short bridge over a small creek about 20 minutes from my house, my Jeep started slipping and sliding and shimmying like a drunk rattlesnake. Unbeknownst to me, the bridge had iced over. Duh, I should’ve guessed that one. I knew not to slam on the brakes in that situation. I’d done that once before in my old AMC Hornet when it started to slide going around a curve in the rain and it spun 180 degrees and slammed into the curb. Lesson learned. Or so I thought, anyhow.

But then as I got to the far edge of the bridge my Jeep started heading off the side of the road. Tapping or pumping the brakes would probably have been the smart thing to do. Either that or just letting it go off the road and steering back on once it regained traction on the grass. Unfortunately, I did neither. I stomped on the brakes. Bad move.

For the second time in my life, I sent my car spinning into a 180. Go figure. The driver’s side of my Jeep hit a row of deer reflector posts that lined the side of the road. Then it tipped over on its side. I clearly remember thinking at the time "I’m rolling." Oddly enough, it wasn’t a panicky or startled realization. It was more like a "hmm, imagine that…" kind of moment. As my Jeep toppled over, my head hit the soft vinyl window and thumped off the ground. Fortunately for my noodle, there was no rock there. Then my Jeep slid on its side down a 30-foot embankment and landed on its roof in a ditch at the bottom. Just a week earlier the ditch had been full of water, so I guess my timing isn’t always dreadful.

I had my seatbelt on, but I don’t remember hanging upside down or unfastening it. I think the bump on the head stunned me for a second. The first thing I remember after the Jeep landed upside down was trying to open the driver’s side door and discovering that it was wedged against the side of the embankment and wouldn’t open. So I crawled past the console, which had previously been between the seats but which had come loose and fallen down to the roof in the accident, and got out through the passenger side door.

One image that I think will be fixed in my memory forever is looking back up toward the road and seeing the silhouette of a man running back up the side of the road to check on me framed in the misty haze. Bless him. He asked me if I was all right and I said I thought I was and then he suggested I turn off my engine. Oh yeah. Guess that would be good, huh? Then he gave me a ride to a McDonald’s at the next highway exit so I could call my folks (this was in the days before everyone over the age of eight carried a cellphone).

My Mom freaked out a bit when I told her what had happened, even though I tried to make it sound like it wasn’t a big deal. They came and got me and took me to get checked out at the hospital. Apart from having a knot on the side of my head I was fine, so then we drove to a towing company and had them follow us out to the accident site so they could retrieve my Jeep. They flipped it back over and winched it up the embankment and towed it off to the nearest Jeep dealer. There were two other accidents due to that icy bridge that day, but neither of the other drivers were dumb enough to turn upside down.

The next day I caught a flight back to Norfolk. For some reason the insurance company didn’t total my Jeep. They should’ve because by the time the repairs were finally done they wound up paying more to get it fixed than the blue book value. It took nearly six months before it was finally repaired and my folks drove it out to Norfolk to give it back to me.

My Jeep never really ran worth a damn after that, although I still kept it for about six more years. There was always one thing or another going wrong with it. I think it was just pissed at me for wrecking it. Now that I think about it, maybe it’s a good thing that I don’t drive anymore. Although with the current state of the Metro, the subway is not exactly the most reassuring mode of transportation either.

(July 9, 2009)

If purchasing a new car is complicated, even more so is that of a used car. A complication of choosing the most interesting model is bound to find the one that is in good condition, a task that is to resort to all the common sense that you have and, above all, good powers of observation. Some of the tips to buy a new car are also used in the case of opting for a second hand.

1. Be clear what kind of car you want

For a model we are looking to buy second hand, usually will have more flexibility to choose, for within our budget we can find a greater choice of different segments and in different states. However, it is important that we clear what kind of vehicle we want to acquire with your engine.

2. How to choose the place of purchase

We choose the place of purchase : establishing specific sale, dealer or an individual. To refine and accelerate a little searching, we can use the print ads in magazines or newspapers, specialized web sites or specific means for the purchase and sale between individuals.

3. Get advice

If we can count on the advice of an expert on the subject, the better. It is common to hear that the model that we like has been owned by an elderly lady, with driver, he always kept in garage and barely used it. It is advisable to analyze each and every one of the various items that make up the vehicle body, engine, transmission, interior, looking for possible repairs to rat body and paint a bad deal. Usually the tires of the windows, the “waters” in painting, bubbles or differences in tone between two components of the body betray a bad repair completed. We should also seek leakage of fluid from the engine, transmission or cooling. An effective means to detect these latest incidents is upload it to an elevator to observe carefully the state of the vehicle’s underside.

4.  Take a walk with his usual driver

We can ask the landlord to give us a ride with him driving the car. We will look at your driving, if it requires a lot of the engine, if you make changes quickly and if you’re driving, try to conceal vehicle problems (with the steering wheel can hide the address “pulling” to one side, if it takes too long to change gear may mean that it scratches if you can brake well in advance that the brakes are not good). Later we drive us to verify that there are problems with the car and our driving style.

5. Identify potential vehicle ailments

The backlash, noises, squeaks and fumes are also symptoms of premature aging. If the address has an excessive slack by turning to both sides, the tires may also show irregular wear. If the engine fires blue-white smoke and smells oily, is that not in very good condition and burning of the oil for lubrication.

The caution, the “nose” and common sense are the best tips to avoid last minute problems. The rush is never good. Normally the vendors, whether professionals or individuals, always have another person interested in the car we like. If only the other person is interested, buy it. There are more cars than sausages… Normally the sale and the dealers offer better guarantees and are easier to locate in the event of problems.

We provides services to buy used cars Online both private cars and dealer used cars on sale.we provide is to steer away from deals that are too good to be true, stay away from overseas buyers that are not willing to view the used cars , and stay clear of Pay Pal or Escrow money transfer transaction unless they can be verified as genuine.

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The Ritual
Car Buying Tips
Image by puck90
"Young lady!"

"Young lady, come on over here!"

Every day as I leave work I hear Henry say this to me in his thick Lousiana accent.

"Hello sir" I say.

"Young Lady, how much tips did you get today?"

If I say "Nothing today" He says:

" Ah, them folks is so cheap. You know what? You should take a stick with you and if they don’t give you nothing you should hit em upside the head"

If I say that I got some tips he asks "Whacha gona do with all that money, now that you so rich?"

"Put some gas in my car or maybe buy some food"

"Ah, you save up and buy something nice, like a new camera, ok"

"Good night sir."

"Good night young lady."

With the increasing fraud and scam, it is imperative that one should be extremely careful while buying a car, especially if you are buying a used car, you need to be excessively careful. Here are some tips that will protect you and your hard-earned money.

See for the exterior, it should have consistent smooth paint. If it has scratches or abrupt paint, it means that the car might have repaired and painted.

It is very important that you check the gaps between the panels, they should be equal.

Try the door, open and close each one on the doors. Sometimes the doors are faulty after many years of use.

Press down the car from all the corners, a good car will come up smoothly after it has been pressed down.

It is very important that you check the Vehicle identification number, then check the odometer of the car and crosscheck it with the mileage.

Try the AC, vipers, start the car, and check if it is fine and quite.

I have seen a lot of people who buy faulty cars, they are hasty in buying and realize it after some time that they have made a mistake. You are responsible to protect yourself, no one else will. If you follow these tips, there is no chance that you will waste your money on buying used cars; instead, you will make great deals. You do not have to be an expert if you want to buy a used car, you just have to be careful.

Now when you have the tips search used cars here

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Car Buying Tips for Them and Us

Jaguars: Awesome white E-Type convertible coupe and boring 80s model of no consequence
Car Buying Tips
Image by Chris Devers
Quoting from Wikipedia: Jaguar E-Type:

• • • • •

The Jaguar E-Type (UK) or XK-E (US) is a British automobile manufactured by Jaguar between 1961 and 1974. Its combination of good looks, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. A great success for Jaguar, over seventy thousand E-Types were sold during its lifespan.

In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in Daily Telegraph list of the "100 most beautiful cars" of all time.[2] In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.

Contents

1 Overview
2 Concept versions
•• 2.1 E1A (1957)
•• 2.2 E2A (1960)
3 Production versions
•• 3.1 Series 1 (1961-1968)
•• 3.2 Series 2 (1969-1971)
•• 3.3 Series 3 (1971-1975)
4 Limited edtions
•• 4.1 Low Drag Coupé (1962)
•• 4.2 Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)
5 Motor Sport
6 See also
7 References
8 External links

Overview

The E-Type was initially designed and shown to the public as a grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as convertible (OTS or Open Two Seater). The 2+2 version with a lengthened wheelbase was released several years later.

On its release Enzo Ferrari called it "The most beautiful car ever made".

The model was made in three distinct versions which are now generally referred to as "Series 1", "Series 2" and "Series 3". A transitional series between Series 1 and Series 2 is known unofficially as "Series 1½".

In addition, several limited-edition variants were produced:

• The "’Lightweight’ E-Type" which was apparently intended as a sort of follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, one is known to have been destroyed and two others have been converted to coupé form. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors.
• The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Concept versions

E1A (1957)

After their success at LeMans 24 hr through the 1950s Jaguars defunct racing department were given the brief to use D-Type style construction to build a road going sports car, replacing the XK150.

It is suspected that the first prototype (E1A) was given the code based on: (E): The proposed production name E-Type (1): First Prototype (A): Aluminium construction (Production models used steel bodies)

The car featured a monocoque design, Jaguar’s fully independent rear suspension and the well proved "XK" engine.

The car was used solely for factory testings and was never formally released to the public. The car was eventually scrapped by the factory

E2A (1960)

Jaguar’s second E-Type concept was E2A which unlike E1A was constructed from a steel chassis and used a aluminium body. This car was completed as a race car as it was thought by Jaguar at the time it would provide a better testing ground.

E2A used a 3 litre version of the XK engine with a Lucas fuel injection system.

After retiring from the LeMans 24 hr the car was shipped to America to be used for racing by Jaguar privateer Briggs Cunningham.

In 1961 the car returned to Jaguar in England to be used as a testing mule.

Ownership of E2A passed to Roger Woodley (Jaguars customer competition car manager) who took possession on the basis the car not be used for racing. E2A had been scheduled to be scrapped.

Roger’s wife Penny Griffiths owned E2A until 2008 when it was offered for sale at Bonham’s Quail Auction. Sale price was US.5 million

Production versions

Series 1 (1961-1968)

Series I

• Production
1961–1968[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
3.8 L XK I6
4.2 L XK I6

Wheelbase
96.0 in (2438 mm) (FHC / OTS)
105.0 in (2667 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Length
175.3125 in (4453 mm) (FHC / OTS)
184.4375 in (4685 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Width
65.25 in (1657 mm) (all) [5]

• Height
48.125 in (1222 mm) (FHC)
50.125 in (1273 mm) (2+2)
46.5 in (1181 mm) (OTS)[5]

Curb weight
2,900 lb (1,315 kg) (FHC)
2,770 lb (1,256 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

• Fuel capacity
63.64 L (16.8 US gal; 14.0 imp gal)[5]

The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.[7] The cars at this time used the triple SU carburetted 3.8 litre 6-cylinder Jaguar XK6 engine from the XK150S. The first 500 cars built had flat floors and external hood (bonnet) latches. These cars are rare and more valuable. After that, the floors were dished to provide more leg room and the twin hood latches moved to inside the car. The 3.8 litre engine was increased to 4.2 litres in October 1964.[7]

All E-Types featured independent coil spring rear suspension with torsion bar front ends, and four wheel disc brakes, in-board at the rear, all were power-assisted. Jaguar was one of the first auto manufacturers to equip cars with disc brakes as standard from the XK150 in 1958. The Series 1 can be recognised by glass covered headlights (up to 1967), small "mouth" opening at the front, signal lights and tail-lights above bumpers and exhaust tips under the licence plate in the rear.

3.8 litre cars have leather-upholstered bucket seats, an aluminium-trimmed centre instrument panel and console (changed to vinyl and leather in 1963), and a Moss 4-speed gearbox that lacks synchromesh for 1st gear ("Moss box"). 4.2 litre cars have more comfortable seats, improved brakes and electrical systems, and an all-synchromesh 4-speed gearbox. 4.2 litre cars also have a badge on the boot proclaiming "Jaguar 4.2 Litre E-Type" (3.8 cars have a simple "Jaguar" badge). Optional extras included chrome spoked wheels and a detachable hard top for the OTS.

An original E-Type hard top is very rare, and finding one intact with all the chrome, not to mention original paint in decent condition, is rather difficult. For those who want a hardtop and aren’t fussy over whether or not it is an original from Jaguar, several third parties have recreated the hardtop to almost exact specifications. The cost ranges anywhere from double to triple the cost of a canvas/vinyl soft top.

A 2+2 version of the coupé was added in 1966. The 2+2 offered the option of an automatic transmission. The body is 9 in (229 mm) longer and the roof angles are different with a more vertical windscreen. The roadster remained a strict two-seater.

There was a transitional series of cars built in 1967-68, unofficially called "Series 1½", which are externally similar to Series 1 cars. Due to American pressure the new features were open headlights, different switches, and some de-tuning (with a downgrade of twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs from the original triple SU carbs) for US models. Some Series 1½ cars also have twin cooling fans and adjustable seat backs. Series 2 features were gradually introduced into the Series 1, creating the unofficial Series 1½ cars, but always with the Series 1 body style.

Less widely known, there was also right at the end of Series 1 production and prior to the transitional "Series 1½" referred to above, a very small number of Series 1 cars produced with open headlights.[8] These are sometimes referred to as "Series 1¼" cars.[9] Production dates on these machines vary but in right hand drive form production has been verified as late as March 1968.[10] It is thought that the low number of these cars produced relative to the other Series make them amongst the rarest of all production E Types.

An open 3.8 litre car, actually the first such production car to be completed, was tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1961 and had a top speed of 149.1 mph (240.0 km/h) and could accelerate from 0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 7.1 seconds. A fuel consumption of 21.3 miles per imperial gallon (13.3 L/100 km; 17.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £2097 including taxes.[11]

Production numbers from Graham[12]:

• 15,490 3.8s
• 17,320 4.2s
• 10,930 2+2s

Production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Series 2 (1969-1971)

Series II

• Production
1969–1971[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
4.2 L XK I6

Curb weight
3,018 lb (1,369 kg) (FHC)
2,750 lb (1,247 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

Open headlights without glass covers, a wrap-around rear bumper, re-positioned and larger front indicators and taillights below the bumpers, better cooling aided by an enlarged "mouth" and twin electric fans, and uprated brakes are hallmarks of Series 2 cars. De-tuned in US, but still with triple SUs in the UK, the engine is easily identified visually by the change from smooth polished cam covers to a more industrial ‘ribbed’ appearance. Late Series 1½ cars also had ribbed cam covers. The interior and dashboard were also redesigned, with rocker switches that met U.S health and safety regulations being substituted for toggle switches. The dashboard switches also lost their symmetrical layout. New seats were fitted, which purists claim lacked the style of the originals but were certainly more comfortable. Air conditioning and power steering were available as factory options.

Production according to Graham[12] is 13,490 of all types.

Series 2 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Official delivery numbers by market and year are listed in Porter[3] but no summary totals are given.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Series III

• Production
1971–1975

Body style(s)
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
5.3 L Jaguar V12

Wheelbase
105 in (2667 mm) (both)[6]

• Length
184.4 in (4684 mm) (2+2)
184.5 in (4686 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Width
66.0 in (1676 mm) (2+2)
66.1 in (1679 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Height
48.9 in (1242 mm) (2+2)
48.1 in (1222 mm) (OTS)[6]

Curb weight
3,361 lb (1,525 kg) (2+2)
3,380 lb (1,533 kg) (OTS)[6]

• Fuel capacity
82 L (21.7 US gal; 18.0 imp gal)[14]

A new 5.3 L 12-cylinder Jaguar V12 engine was introduced, with uprated brakes and standard power steering. The short wheelbase FHC body style was discontinued and the V12 was available only as a convertible and 2+2 coupé. The convertible used the longer-wheelbase 2+2 floorplan. It is easily identifiable by the large cross-slatted front grille, flared wheel arches and a badge on the rear that proclaims it to be a V12. There were also a very limited number of 4.2 litre six-cylinder Series 3 E-Types built. These were featured in the initial sales literature. It is believed these are the rarest of all E-Types of any remaining.

In 2008 a British classic car enthusiast assembled what is surely the last ever E-Type from parts bought from the end-of-production surplus in 1974.[15]

Graham[12] lists production at 15,290.

Series 3 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Limited edtions

Two limited production E-Type variants were made as test beds, the Low Drag Coupe and Lightweight E-Type, both of which were raced:

Low Drag Coupé (1962)

Shortly after the introduction of the E-Type, Jaguar management wanted to investigate the possibility of building a car more in the spirit of the D-Type racer from which elements of the E-Type’s styling and design were derived. One car was built to test the concept designed as a coupé as its monocoque design could only be made rigid enough for racing by using the "stressed skin" principle. Previous Jaguar racers were built as open-top cars because they were based on ladder frame designs with independent chassis and bodies. Unlike the steel production E-Types the LDC used lightweight aluminium. Sayer retained the original tub with lighter outer panels riveted and glued to it. The front steel sub frame remained intact, the windshield was given a more pronounced slope and the rear hatch welded shut. Rear brake cooling ducts appeared next to the rear windows,and the interior trim was discarded, with only insulation around the transmission tunnel. With the exception of the windscreen, all cockpit glass was plexi. A tuned version of Jaguar’s 3.8 litre engine with a wide angle cylinder-head design tested on the D-Type racers was used. Air management became a major problem and, although much sexier looking and certainly faster than a production E-Type, the car was never competitive: the faster it went, the more it wanted to do what its design dictated: take off.

The one and only test bed car was completed in summer of 1962 but was sold a year later to Jaguar racing driver Dick Protheroe who raced it extensively and eventually sold it. Since then it has passed through the hands of several collectors on both sides of the Atlantic and now is believed to reside in the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)

In some ways, this was an evolution of the Low Drag Coupé. It made extensive use of aluminium alloy in the body panels and other components. However, with at least one exception, it remained an open-top car in the spirit of the D-Type to which this car is a more direct successor than the production E-Type which is more of a GT than a sports car. The cars used a tuned version of the production 3.8 litre Jaguar engine with 300 bhp (224 kW) output rather than the 265 bhp (198 kW) produced by the "ordinary" version. At least one car is known to have been fitted with fuel-injection.

The cars were entered in various races but, unlike the C-Type and D-Type racing cars, they did not win at Le Mans or Sebring.

Motor Sport

Bob Jane won the 1963 Australian GT Championship at the wheel of an E-Type.

The Jaguar E-Type was very successful in SCCA Production sports car racing with Group44 and Bob Tullius taking the B-Production championship with a Series-3 V12 racer in 1975. A few years later, Gran-Turismo Jaguar from Cleveland Ohio campaigned a 4.2 L 6 cylinder FHC racer in SCCA production series and in 1980, won the National Championship in the SCCA C-Production Class defeating a fully funded factory Nissan Z-car team with Paul Newman.

See also

Jaguar XK150 – predecessor to the E-Type
Jaguar XJS – successor to the E-Type
Jaguar XK8 – The E-Type’s current and spiritual successor
Guyson E12 – a rebodied series III built by William Towns

References

^ Loughborough graduate and designer of E Type Jaguar honoured
^ 100 most beautiful cars
• ^ a b cPorter, Philip (2006). Jaguar E-type, the definitive history. p. 443. ISBN 0-85429-580-1.
• ^ a b"’69 Series 2 Jaguar E Types", Autocar, October 24, 1968
• ^ a b c d eThe Complete Official Jaguar "E". Cambridge: Robert Bentley. 1974. p. 12. ISBN 0-8376-0136-3.
• ^ a b c d e f g"Jaguar E-Type Specifications". http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/specifications.php. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
• ^ a b"Buying secondhand E-type Jaguar". Autocar 141 (nbr4042): pages 50–52. 6 April 1974.
^ See Jaguar Clubs of North America concourse information at: [1] and more specifically the actual Series 1½ concourse guide at [2]
^ Ibid.
^ Compare right hand drive VIN numbers given in JCNA concours guide referred to above with production dates for right hand drive cars as reflected in the XKEdata database at [3]
^"The Jaguar E-type". The Motor. March 22, 1961.
• ^ a b cRobson, Graham (2006). A–Z British Cars 1945–1980. Devon, UK: Herridge & Sons. ISBN 0-9541063-9-3.
• ^ a b chttp://www.xkedata.com/stats/. http://www.xkedata.com/stats/. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
^Daily Express Motor Show Review 1975 Cars: Page 24 (Jaguar E V12). October 1974.
^ jalopnik.com/5101872/british-man-cobbles-together-last-ja…

Weather it be a Hyundai or a Bentley gt we all like to save money. It feels good. I have purchased many cars in my life so here are some.

Good things

Check edmunds for incentives reviews rebates etc.Do a credit check when deal is on paper.Take time.Test drive.Get the best deal. Then say I’ll think aboutit. As you are walking out 99% of the timethey call you back with a better deal.Use Internet pricing. edmunds has a toolthat emails 3 to 5 dealers to get a quote onthe vehicle you want. In turn they competeon the price witch is good for you.

Bad Things

Have your spouse going nuts over the car

in front of the salesman.buy paint protection.Run credit as soon as you say Take first deal.Feal bad for salesman.Buy a car to make the salesman happy.If they say if i could do say 200 a month instead of 300 would you come back.that is a scam. Just used to get you back.Since they know the other dealers you go to cant macth that price.

Http://www.romangelsi.com

Article from articlesbase.com

More Car Buying Tips Articles

First Car Buying Tips

Jaguar E-Type 4.2 at Samuel’s in Allston: Profile view
Car Buying Tips
Image by Chris Devers
Quoting from Wikipedia: Jaguar E-Type:

• • • • •

The Jaguar E-Type (UK) or XK-E (US) is a British automobile manufactured by Jaguar between 1961 and 1974. Its combination of good looks, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. A great success for Jaguar, over seventy thousand E-Types were sold during its lifespan.

In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in Daily Telegraph list of the "100 most beautiful cars" of all time.[2] In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.

Contents

1 Overview
2 Concept versions
•• 2.1 E1A (1957)
•• 2.2 E2A (1960)
3 Production versions
•• 3.1 Series 1 (1961-1968)
•• 3.2 Series 2 (1969-1971)
•• 3.3 Series 3 (1971-1975)
4 Limited edtions
•• 4.1 Low Drag Coupé (1962)
•• 4.2 Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)
5 Motor Sport
6 See also
7 References
8 External links

Overview

The E-Type was initially designed and shown to the public as a grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as convertible (OTS or Open Two Seater). The 2+2 version with a lengthened wheelbase was released several years later.

On its release Enzo Ferrari called it "The most beautiful car ever made".

The model was made in three distinct versions which are now generally referred to as "Series 1", "Series 2" and "Series 3". A transitional series between Series 1 and Series 2 is known unofficially as "Series 1½".

In addition, several limited-edition variants were produced:

• The "’Lightweight’ E-Type" which was apparently intended as a sort of follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, one is known to have been destroyed and two others have been converted to coupé form. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors.
• The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Concept versions

E1A (1957)

After their success at LeMans 24 hr through the 1950s Jaguars defunct racing department were given the brief to use D-Type style construction to build a road going sports car, replacing the XK150.

It is suspected that the first prototype (E1A) was given the code based on: (E): The proposed production name E-Type (1): First Prototype (A): Aluminium construction (Production models used steel bodies)

The car featured a monocoque design, Jaguar’s fully independent rear suspension and the well proved "XK" engine.

The car was used solely for factory testings and was never formally released to the public. The car was eventually scrapped by the factory

E2A (1960)

Jaguar’s second E-Type concept was E2A which unlike E1A was constructed from a steel chassis and used a aluminium body. This car was completed as a race car as it was thought by Jaguar at the time it would provide a better testing ground.

E2A used a 3 litre version of the XK engine with a Lucas fuel injection system.

After retiring from the LeMans 24 hr the car was shipped to America to be used for racing by Jaguar privateer Briggs Cunningham.

In 1961 the car returned to Jaguar in England to be used as a testing mule.

Ownership of E2A passed to Roger Woodley (Jaguars customer competition car manager) who took possession on the basis the car not be used for racing. E2A had been scheduled to be scrapped.

Roger’s wife Penny Griffiths owned E2A until 2008 when it was offered for sale at Bonham’s Quail Auction. Sale price was US.5 million

Production versions

Series 1 (1961-1968)

Series I

• Production
1961–1968[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
3.8 L XK I6
4.2 L XK I6

Wheelbase
96.0 in (2438 mm) (FHC / OTS)
105.0 in (2667 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Length
175.3125 in (4453 mm) (FHC / OTS)
184.4375 in (4685 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Width
65.25 in (1657 mm) (all) [5]

• Height
48.125 in (1222 mm) (FHC)
50.125 in (1273 mm) (2+2)
46.5 in (1181 mm) (OTS)[5]

Curb weight
2,900 lb (1,315 kg) (FHC)
2,770 lb (1,256 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

• Fuel capacity
63.64 L (16.8 US gal; 14.0 imp gal)[5]

The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.[7] The cars at this time used the triple SU carburetted 3.8 litre 6-cylinder Jaguar XK6 engine from the XK150S. The first 500 cars built had flat floors and external hood (bonnet) latches. These cars are rare and more valuable. After that, the floors were dished to provide more leg room and the twin hood latches moved to inside the car. The 3.8 litre engine was increased to 4.2 litres in October 1964.[7]

All E-Types featured independent coil spring rear suspension with torsion bar front ends, and four wheel disc brakes, in-board at the rear, all were power-assisted. Jaguar was one of the first auto manufacturers to equip cars with disc brakes as standard from the XK150 in 1958. The Series 1 can be recognised by glass covered headlights (up to 1967), small "mouth" opening at the front, signal lights and tail-lights above bumpers and exhaust tips under the licence plate in the rear.

3.8 litre cars have leather-upholstered bucket seats, an aluminium-trimmed centre instrument panel and console (changed to vinyl and leather in 1963), and a Moss 4-speed gearbox that lacks synchromesh for 1st gear ("Moss box"). 4.2 litre cars have more comfortable seats, improved brakes and electrical systems, and an all-synchromesh 4-speed gearbox. 4.2 litre cars also have a badge on the boot proclaiming "Jaguar 4.2 Litre E-Type" (3.8 cars have a simple "Jaguar" badge). Optional extras included chrome spoked wheels and a detachable hard top for the OTS.

An original E-Type hard top is very rare, and finding one intact with all the chrome, not to mention original paint in decent condition, is rather difficult. For those who want a hardtop and aren’t fussy over whether or not it is an original from Jaguar, several third parties have recreated the hardtop to almost exact specifications. The cost ranges anywhere from double to triple the cost of a canvas/vinyl soft top.

A 2+2 version of the coupé was added in 1966. The 2+2 offered the option of an automatic transmission. The body is 9 in (229 mm) longer and the roof angles are different with a more vertical windscreen. The roadster remained a strict two-seater.

There was a transitional series of cars built in 1967-68, unofficially called "Series 1½", which are externally similar to Series 1 cars. Due to American pressure the new features were open headlights, different switches, and some de-tuning (with a downgrade of twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs from the original triple SU carbs) for US models. Some Series 1½ cars also have twin cooling fans and adjustable seat backs. Series 2 features were gradually introduced into the Series 1, creating the unofficial Series 1½ cars, but always with the Series 1 body style.

Less widely known, there was also right at the end of Series 1 production and prior to the transitional "Series 1½" referred to above, a very small number of Series 1 cars produced with open headlights.[8] These are sometimes referred to as "Series 1¼" cars.[9] Production dates on these machines vary but in right hand drive form production has been verified as late as March 1968.[10] It is thought that the low number of these cars produced relative to the other Series make them amongst the rarest of all production E Types.

An open 3.8 litre car, actually the first such production car to be completed, was tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1961 and had a top speed of 149.1 mph (240.0 km/h) and could accelerate from 0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 7.1 seconds. A fuel consumption of 21.3 miles per imperial gallon (13.3 L/100 km; 17.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £2097 including taxes.[11]

Production numbers from Graham[12]:

• 15,490 3.8s
• 17,320 4.2s
• 10,930 2+2s

Production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Series 2 (1969-1971)

Series II

• Production
1969–1971[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
4.2 L XK I6

Curb weight
3,018 lb (1,369 kg) (FHC)
2,750 lb (1,247 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

Open headlights without glass covers, a wrap-around rear bumper, re-positioned and larger front indicators and taillights below the bumpers, better cooling aided by an enlarged "mouth" and twin electric fans, and uprated brakes are hallmarks of Series 2 cars. De-tuned in US, but still with triple SUs in the UK, the engine is easily identified visually by the change from smooth polished cam covers to a more industrial ‘ribbed’ appearance. Late Series 1½ cars also had ribbed cam covers. The interior and dashboard were also redesigned, with rocker switches that met U.S health and safety regulations being substituted for toggle switches. The dashboard switches also lost their symmetrical layout. New seats were fitted, which purists claim lacked the style of the originals but were certainly more comfortable. Air conditioning and power steering were available as factory options.

Production according to Graham[12] is 13,490 of all types.

Series 2 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Official delivery numbers by market and year are listed in Porter[3] but no summary totals are given.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Series III

• Production
1971–1975

Body style(s)
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
5.3 L Jaguar V12

Wheelbase
105 in (2667 mm) (both)[6]

• Length
184.4 in (4684 mm) (2+2)
184.5 in (4686 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Width
66.0 in (1676 mm) (2+2)
66.1 in (1679 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Height
48.9 in (1242 mm) (2+2)
48.1 in (1222 mm) (OTS)[6]

Curb weight
3,361 lb (1,525 kg) (2+2)
3,380 lb (1,533 kg) (OTS)[6]

• Fuel capacity
82 L (21.7 US gal; 18.0 imp gal)[14]

A new 5.3 L 12-cylinder Jaguar V12 engine was introduced, with uprated brakes and standard power steering. The short wheelbase FHC body style was discontinued and the V12 was available only as a convertible and 2+2 coupé. The convertible used the longer-wheelbase 2+2 floorplan. It is easily identifiable by the large cross-slatted front grille, flared wheel arches and a badge on the rear that proclaims it to be a V12. There were also a very limited number of 4.2 litre six-cylinder Series 3 E-Types built. These were featured in the initial sales literature. It is believed these are the rarest of all E-Types of any remaining.

In 2008 a British classic car enthusiast assembled what is surely the last ever E-Type from parts bought from the end-of-production surplus in 1974.[15]

Graham[12] lists production at 15,290.

Series 3 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Limited edtions

Two limited production E-Type variants were made as test beds, the Low Drag Coupe and Lightweight E-Type, both of which were raced:

Low Drag Coupé (1962)

Shortly after the introduction of the E-Type, Jaguar management wanted to investigate the possibility of building a car more in the spirit of the D-Type racer from which elements of the E-Type’s styling and design were derived. One car was built to test the concept designed as a coupé as its monocoque design could only be made rigid enough for racing by using the "stressed skin" principle. Previous Jaguar racers were built as open-top cars because they were based on ladder frame designs with independent chassis and bodies. Unlike the steel production E-Types the LDC used lightweight aluminium. Sayer retained the original tub with lighter outer panels riveted and glued to it. The front steel sub frame remained intact, the windshield was given a more pronounced slope and the rear hatch welded shut. Rear brake cooling ducts appeared next to the rear windows,and the interior trim was discarded, with only insulation around the transmission tunnel. With the exception of the windscreen, all cockpit glass was plexi. A tuned version of Jaguar’s 3.8 litre engine with a wide angle cylinder-head design tested on the D-Type racers was used. Air management became a major problem and, although much sexier looking and certainly faster than a production E-Type, the car was never competitive: the faster it went, the more it wanted to do what its design dictated: take off.

The one and only test bed car was completed in summer of 1962 but was sold a year later to Jaguar racing driver Dick Protheroe who raced it extensively and eventually sold it. Since then it has passed through the hands of several collectors on both sides of the Atlantic and now is believed to reside in the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)

In some ways, this was an evolution of the Low Drag Coupé. It made extensive use of aluminium alloy in the body panels and other components. However, with at least one exception, it remained an open-top car in the spirit of the D-Type to which this car is a more direct successor than the production E-Type which is more of a GT than a sports car. The cars used a tuned version of the production 3.8 litre Jaguar engine with 300 bhp (224 kW) output rather than the 265 bhp (198 kW) produced by the "ordinary" version. At least one car is known to have been fitted with fuel-injection.

The cars were entered in various races but, unlike the C-Type and D-Type racing cars, they did not win at Le Mans or Sebring.

Motor Sport

Bob Jane won the 1963 Australian GT Championship at the wheel of an E-Type.

The Jaguar E-Type was very successful in SCCA Production sports car racing with Group44 and Bob Tullius taking the B-Production championship with a Series-3 V12 racer in 1975. A few years later, Gran-Turismo Jaguar from Cleveland Ohio campaigned a 4.2 L 6 cylinder FHC racer in SCCA production series and in 1980, won the National Championship in the SCCA C-Production Class defeating a fully funded factory Nissan Z-car team with Paul Newman.

See also

Jaguar XK150 – predecessor to the E-Type
Jaguar XJS – successor to the E-Type
Jaguar XK8 – The E-Type’s current and spiritual successor
Guyson E12 – a rebodied series III built by William Towns

References

^ Loughborough graduate and designer of E Type Jaguar honoured
^ 100 most beautiful cars
• ^ a b cPorter, Philip (2006). Jaguar E-type, the definitive history. p. 443. ISBN 0-85429-580-1.
• ^ a b"’69 Series 2 Jaguar E Types", Autocar, October 24, 1968
• ^ a b c d eThe Complete Official Jaguar "E". Cambridge: Robert Bentley. 1974. p. 12. ISBN 0-8376-0136-3.
• ^ a b c d e f g"Jaguar E-Type Specifications". http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/specifications.php. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
• ^ a b"Buying secondhand E-type Jaguar". Autocar 141 (nbr4042): pages 50–52. 6 April 1974.
^ See Jaguar Clubs of North America concourse information at: [1] and more specifically the actual Series 1½ concourse guide at [2]
^ Ibid.
^ Compare right hand drive VIN numbers given in JCNA concours guide referred to above with production dates for right hand drive cars as reflected in the XKEdata database at [3]
^"The Jaguar E-type". The Motor. March 22, 1961.
• ^ a b cRobson, Graham (2006). A–Z British Cars 1945–1980. Devon, UK: Herridge & Sons. ISBN 0-9541063-9-3.
• ^ a b chttp://www.xkedata.com/stats/. http://www.xkedata.com/stats/. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
^Daily Express Motor Show Review 1975 Cars: Page 24 (Jaguar E V12). October 1974.
^ jalopnik.com/5101872/british-man-cobbles-together-last-ja…

I don’t know about you, but when I bought my first car I didn’t have a lot of information to go on for the process. I admit I had two cars previously to the first car I bought, but those deals were made by my father. He was the man with the money and he was paying for the cars outright. So when I decided to trade in my car for a different model and a newer vehicle I needed a little help from those who had bought cars before. I didn’t want to make a mistake and get an unfair deal from a dealership or private owner. The great thing was I had my parents to help me find the information I needed to purchase that car. I even had my mom come help me make the deal. It took us a little over five hours and closing the joint, but I walked away with one of the best deals on a 2000 vehicle that I could have for my financial state as well as my credit history.

What you need to know about buying your first car is quite simple. First you need to know all about the car you are interested in buying. You need to know what that car would cost new, what the used retail price is for a dealership as well as a private sale, and what condition the car is in. You also need to know if it has any bells and whistles added on to it as that will affect the price. Kelly Blue Book and other consumer reports will allow you to find out all of the information you need for a general search. Armed with this information you can negotiate a fair price. If you have a trade in you should also know the value on that for trading it in to a dealer as opposed to selling it privately.

You also need to know about your credit history. You need to know where your credit scores stand. You also want to know where you will stand regarding the dealership score. The look at your FICO score as well as a risk score that they calculate. They are basically looking to see if you can afford the car you are interested in buying. If you don’t have a credit history that is very lengthy you can expect any car loan to be offered a little higher than seems fair. They are just trying to establish your risk and since you don’t have much of a history they consider you more of a risk.

Once you know both the car facts and the financial situation you are in you are ready to deal. You let the dealerships know that you have done your homework. Also let them know you are willing to walk away if the deal isn’t to your specifications, not there. There are several tactics they can use like saying, “We have to make some profit,” or “I work on commissions.” You have to be in control not the other way around.

Mark Robinson writes for Auto-Loans.GuideFin.com. Visit his website for information about used auto loans.

Article from articlesbase.com

Related Car Buying Tips Articles

Top Car Buying Tips You Should Know

Jaguar E-Type 4-2
Car Buying Tips
Image by Chris Devers
Quoting from Wikipedia: Jaguar E-Type:

• • • • •

The Jaguar E-Type (UK) or XK-E (US) is a British automobile manufactured by Jaguar between 1961 and 1974. Its combination of good looks, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. A great success for Jaguar, over seventy thousand E-Types were sold during its lifespan.

In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in Daily Telegraph list of the "100 most beautiful cars" of all time.[2] In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.

Contents

1 Overview
2 Concept versions
•• 2.1 E1A (1957)
•• 2.2 E2A (1960)
3 Production versions
•• 3.1 Series 1 (1961-1968)
•• 3.2 Series 2 (1969-1971)
•• 3.3 Series 3 (1971-1975)
4 Limited edtions
•• 4.1 Low Drag Coupé (1962)
•• 4.2 Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)
5 Motor Sport
6 See also
7 References
8 External links

Overview

The E-Type was initially designed and shown to the public as a grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as convertible (OTS or Open Two Seater). The 2+2 version with a lengthened wheelbase was released several years later.

On its release Enzo Ferrari called it "The most beautiful car ever made".

The model was made in three distinct versions which are now generally referred to as "Series 1", "Series 2" and "Series 3". A transitional series between Series 1 and Series 2 is known unofficially as "Series 1½".

In addition, several limited-edition variants were produced:

• The "’Lightweight’ E-Type" which was apparently intended as a sort of follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, one is known to have been destroyed and two others have been converted to coupé form. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors.
• The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Concept versions

E1A (1957)

After their success at LeMans 24 hr through the 1950s Jaguars defunct racing department were given the brief to use D-Type style construction to build a road going sports car, replacing the XK150.

It is suspected that the first prototype (E1A) was given the code based on: (E): The proposed production name E-Type (1): First Prototype (A): Aluminium construction (Production models used steel bodies)

The car featured a monocoque design, Jaguar’s fully independent rear suspension and the well proved "XK" engine.

The car was used solely for factory testings and was never formally released to the public. The car was eventually scrapped by the factory

E2A (1960)

Jaguar’s second E-Type concept was E2A which unlike E1A was constructed from a steel chassis and used a aluminium body. This car was completed as a race car as it was thought by Jaguar at the time it would provide a better testing ground.

E2A used a 3 litre version of the XK engine with a Lucas fuel injection system.

After retiring from the LeMans 24 hr the car was shipped to America to be used for racing by Jaguar privateer Briggs Cunningham.

In 1961 the car returned to Jaguar in England to be used as a testing mule.

Ownership of E2A passed to Roger Woodley (Jaguars customer competition car manager) who took possession on the basis the car not be used for racing. E2A had been scheduled to be scrapped.

Roger’s wife Penny Griffiths owned E2A until 2008 when it was offered for sale at Bonham’s Quail Auction. Sale price was US.5 million

Production versions

Series 1 (1961-1968)

Series I

• Production
1961–1968[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
3.8 L XK I6
4.2 L XK I6

Wheelbase
96.0 in (2438 mm) (FHC / OTS)
105.0 in (2667 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Length
175.3125 in (4453 mm) (FHC / OTS)
184.4375 in (4685 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Width
65.25 in (1657 mm) (all) [5]

• Height
48.125 in (1222 mm) (FHC)
50.125 in (1273 mm) (2+2)
46.5 in (1181 mm) (OTS)[5]

Curb weight
2,900 lb (1,315 kg) (FHC)
2,770 lb (1,256 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

• Fuel capacity
63.64 L (16.8 US gal; 14.0 imp gal)[5]

The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.[7] The cars at this time used the triple SU carburetted 3.8 litre 6-cylinder Jaguar XK6 engine from the XK150S. The first 500 cars built had flat floors and external hood (bonnet) latches. These cars are rare and more valuable. After that, the floors were dished to provide more leg room and the twin hood latches moved to inside the car. The 3.8 litre engine was increased to 4.2 litres in October 1964.[7]

All E-Types featured independent coil spring rear suspension with torsion bar front ends, and four wheel disc brakes, in-board at the rear, all were power-assisted. Jaguar was one of the first auto manufacturers to equip cars with disc brakes as standard from the XK150 in 1958. The Series 1 can be recognised by glass covered headlights (up to 1967), small "mouth" opening at the front, signal lights and tail-lights above bumpers and exhaust tips under the licence plate in the rear.

3.8 litre cars have leather-upholstered bucket seats, an aluminium-trimmed centre instrument panel and console (changed to vinyl and leather in 1963), and a Moss 4-speed gearbox that lacks synchromesh for 1st gear ("Moss box"). 4.2 litre cars have more comfortable seats, improved brakes and electrical systems, and an all-synchromesh 4-speed gearbox. 4.2 litre cars also have a badge on the boot proclaiming "Jaguar 4.2 Litre E-Type" (3.8 cars have a simple "Jaguar" badge). Optional extras included chrome spoked wheels and a detachable hard top for the OTS.

An original E-Type hard top is very rare, and finding one intact with all the chrome, not to mention original paint in decent condition, is rather difficult. For those who want a hardtop and aren’t fussy over whether or not it is an original from Jaguar, several third parties have recreated the hardtop to almost exact specifications. The cost ranges anywhere from double to triple the cost of a canvas/vinyl soft top.

A 2+2 version of the coupé was added in 1966. The 2+2 offered the option of an automatic transmission. The body is 9 in (229 mm) longer and the roof angles are different with a more vertical windscreen. The roadster remained a strict two-seater.

There was a transitional series of cars built in 1967-68, unofficially called "Series 1½", which are externally similar to Series 1 cars. Due to American pressure the new features were open headlights, different switches, and some de-tuning (with a downgrade of twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs from the original triple SU carbs) for US models. Some Series 1½ cars also have twin cooling fans and adjustable seat backs. Series 2 features were gradually introduced into the Series 1, creating the unofficial Series 1½ cars, but always with the Series 1 body style.

Less widely known, there was also right at the end of Series 1 production and prior to the transitional "Series 1½" referred to above, a very small number of Series 1 cars produced with open headlights.[8] These are sometimes referred to as "Series 1¼" cars.[9] Production dates on these machines vary but in right hand drive form production has been verified as late as March 1968.[10] It is thought that the low number of these cars produced relative to the other Series make them amongst the rarest of all production E Types.

An open 3.8 litre car, actually the first such production car to be completed, was tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1961 and had a top speed of 149.1 mph (240.0 km/h) and could accelerate from 0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 7.1 seconds. A fuel consumption of 21.3 miles per imperial gallon (13.3 L/100 km; 17.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £2097 including taxes.[11]

Production numbers from Graham[12]:

• 15,490 3.8s
• 17,320 4.2s
• 10,930 2+2s

Production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Series 2 (1969-1971)

Series II

• Production
1969–1971[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
4.2 L XK I6

Curb weight
3,018 lb (1,369 kg) (FHC)
2,750 lb (1,247 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

Open headlights without glass covers, a wrap-around rear bumper, re-positioned and larger front indicators and taillights below the bumpers, better cooling aided by an enlarged "mouth" and twin electric fans, and uprated brakes are hallmarks of Series 2 cars. De-tuned in US, but still with triple SUs in the UK, the engine is easily identified visually by the change from smooth polished cam covers to a more industrial ‘ribbed’ appearance. Late Series 1½ cars also had ribbed cam covers. The interior and dashboard were also redesigned, with rocker switches that met U.S health and safety regulations being substituted for toggle switches. The dashboard switches also lost their symmetrical layout. New seats were fitted, which purists claim lacked the style of the originals but were certainly more comfortable. Air conditioning and power steering were available as factory options.

Production according to Graham[12] is 13,490 of all types.

Series 2 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Official delivery numbers by market and year are listed in Porter[3] but no summary totals are given.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Series III

• Production
1971–1975

Body style(s)
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
5.3 L Jaguar V12

Wheelbase
105 in (2667 mm) (both)[6]

• Length
184.4 in (4684 mm) (2+2)
184.5 in (4686 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Width
66.0 in (1676 mm) (2+2)
66.1 in (1679 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Height
48.9 in (1242 mm) (2+2)
48.1 in (1222 mm) (OTS)[6]

Curb weight
3,361 lb (1,525 kg) (2+2)
3,380 lb (1,533 kg) (OTS)[6]

• Fuel capacity
82 L (21.7 US gal; 18.0 imp gal)[14]

A new 5.3 L 12-cylinder Jaguar V12 engine was introduced, with uprated brakes and standard power steering. The short wheelbase FHC body style was discontinued and the V12 was available only as a convertible and 2+2 coupé. The convertible used the longer-wheelbase 2+2 floorplan. It is easily identifiable by the large cross-slatted front grille, flared wheel arches and a badge on the rear that proclaims it to be a V12. There were also a very limited number of 4.2 litre six-cylinder Series 3 E-Types built. These were featured in the initial sales literature. It is believed these are the rarest of all E-Types of any remaining.

In 2008 a British classic car enthusiast assembled what is surely the last ever E-Type from parts bought from the end-of-production surplus in 1974.[15]

Graham[12] lists production at 15,290.

Series 3 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Limited edtions

Two limited production E-Type variants were made as test beds, the Low Drag Coupe and Lightweight E-Type, both of which were raced:

Low Drag Coupé (1962)

Shortly after the introduction of the E-Type, Jaguar management wanted to investigate the possibility of building a car more in the spirit of the D-Type racer from which elements of the E-Type’s styling and design were derived. One car was built to test the concept designed as a coupé as its monocoque design could only be made rigid enough for racing by using the "stressed skin" principle. Previous Jaguar racers were built as open-top cars because they were based on ladder frame designs with independent chassis and bodies. Unlike the steel production E-Types the LDC used lightweight aluminium. Sayer retained the original tub with lighter outer panels riveted and glued to it. The front steel sub frame remained intact, the windshield was given a more pronounced slope and the rear hatch welded shut. Rear brake cooling ducts appeared next to the rear windows,and the interior trim was discarded, with only insulation around the transmission tunnel. With the exception of the windscreen, all cockpit glass was plexi. A tuned version of Jaguar’s 3.8 litre engine with a wide angle cylinder-head design tested on the D-Type racers was used. Air management became a major problem and, although much sexier looking and certainly faster than a production E-Type, the car was never competitive: the faster it went, the more it wanted to do what its design dictated: take off.

The one and only test bed car was completed in summer of 1962 but was sold a year later to Jaguar racing driver Dick Protheroe who raced it extensively and eventually sold it. Since then it has passed through the hands of several collectors on both sides of the Atlantic and now is believed to reside in the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)

In some ways, this was an evolution of the Low Drag Coupé. It made extensive use of aluminium alloy in the body panels and other components. However, with at least one exception, it remained an open-top car in the spirit of the D-Type to which this car is a more direct successor than the production E-Type which is more of a GT than a sports car. The cars used a tuned version of the production 3.8 litre Jaguar engine with 300 bhp (224 kW) output rather than the 265 bhp (198 kW) produced by the "ordinary" version. At least one car is known to have been fitted with fuel-injection.

The cars were entered in various races but, unlike the C-Type and D-Type racing cars, they did not win at Le Mans or Sebring.

Motor Sport

Bob Jane won the 1963 Australian GT Championship at the wheel of an E-Type.

The Jaguar E-Type was very successful in SCCA Production sports car racing with Group44 and Bob Tullius taking the B-Production championship with a Series-3 V12 racer in 1975. A few years later, Gran-Turismo Jaguar from Cleveland Ohio campaigned a 4.2 L 6 cylinder FHC racer in SCCA production series and in 1980, won the National Championship in the SCCA C-Production Class defeating a fully funded factory Nissan Z-car team with Paul Newman.

See also

Jaguar XK150 – predecessor to the E-Type
Jaguar XJS – successor to the E-Type
Jaguar XK8 – The E-Type’s current and spiritual successor
Guyson E12 – a rebodied series III built by William Towns

References

^ Loughborough graduate and designer of E Type Jaguar honoured
^ 100 most beautiful cars
• ^ a b cPorter, Philip (2006). Jaguar E-type, the definitive history. p. 443. ISBN 0-85429-580-1.
• ^ a b"’69 Series 2 Jaguar E Types", Autocar, October 24, 1968
• ^ a b c d eThe Complete Official Jaguar "E". Cambridge: Robert Bentley. 1974. p. 12. ISBN 0-8376-0136-3.
• ^ a b c d e f g"Jaguar E-Type Specifications". http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/specifications.php. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
• ^ a b"Buying secondhand E-type Jaguar". Autocar 141 (nbr4042): pages 50–52. 6 April 1974.
^ See Jaguar Clubs of North America concourse information at: [1] and more specifically the actual Series 1½ concourse guide at [2]
^ Ibid.
^ Compare right hand drive VIN numbers given in JCNA concours guide referred to above with production dates for right hand drive cars as reflected in the XKEdata database at [3]
^"The Jaguar E-type". The Motor. March 22, 1961.
• ^ a b cRobson, Graham (2006). A–Z British Cars 1945–1980. Devon, UK: Herridge & Sons. ISBN 0-9541063-9-3.
• ^ a b chttp://www.xkedata.com/stats/. http://www.xkedata.com/stats/. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
^Daily Express Motor Show Review 1975 Cars: Page 24 (Jaguar E V12). October 1974.
^ jalopnik.com/5101872/british-man-cobbles-together-last-ja…

We all find ourselves during life buying a car and wonder what we are going to do to find the perfect vehicle and the best deal. There is some logic to buying a car that the consumer can use that will help prevent getting a lemon or taken with the financing. You first need to determine the type of vehicle that you need and can afford. Single people often find that they are not in need of a large vehicle but prefer a small economical car with luxuries. Married couples may deem that a smaller car would fit there budget and since they do not have children would be perfect for there needs. The couples with a family think about space and convenience to hold there family and shopping. It is common for mom to use the vehicle the most since she is the family chauffer, shopper and delivery person. The baby’s car seat needs to fit and other items that can be bulky so they are thinking more of a larger size rather than luxury. The price today of gasoline is a constant concern for everyone so buying a vehicle you must think about that. Need not to worry with the newer SUV hybrids coming on the market your fuel costs will become lesser than you think.

When you have determined the type of vehicle you need then you should look into financing before you determine if you want to purchase direct from an owner, off the internet or a dealership. When you buy from anybody, the rule of thumb is to go to carfax.com with the VIN number to check out everything about the vehicle you have in mind. You need to find out if the car was in an accident, damaged in a catastrophe or any major thing that might affect the vehicle performance. You should check when you are buying from a private individual if they have a clear title or if a note is being held. When you have these major things under control then you may proceed with buying the vehicle.

The loan is the next thing on your agenda making sure that you are getting the best rates possible without being penalized for any reason beyond your control. You should check out your own credit score making sure that everything is in proper order. When you are purchasing your vehicle from the auto dealer, make sure that you are getting a car loan not a Retail Installment loan. You should find out if the dealer is planning to sell your loan to a bank or other lender. You want to find out if they are participating in the APR earning some for them if the mark up is high enough. You have the right to know the interest rate on the type of loan that you are going to be signing. The car dealer is not providing you a service they are selling you a product in the form of a loan. After you have successfully taken care of all the technical points, set back and enjoy purchasing your vehicle.

Save up to 5% on gas with reward credit cards at FINDcashbackcards.com, where you can find even more of Tom’s work.

Article from articlesbase.com

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Find More Car Buying Tips Articles

Understanding New Car Rebates

While purchasing a new vehicle, the buyer usually has to come armed with a down payment. The rate of the down payment is determined by the model of the car, the cost of its parts and the overall price that it comes for. Most of the time, this amount is fixed at a 15 to a 20% of the net purchase cost. It is commonplace for most buyers to not have that sort of money on them. The theory by which the distribution of new car rebates works is that the greater the ability of the buyer to pay the down payment, the bigger chances of his getting the new car rebates. However, one should not be ignorant enough to believe that just because he is purchasing a brand new vehicle, a rebate would saturate his bank account. Although such a promotional discount coming from a new-car dealership promises windfalls for the purchaser, the case is not so simple. When the buyer is unable to pay the down payment, the new car rebates come to the rescue. The manufacturer distributes the rebate to such a customer. The amount is dependent upon the overall making charge and the price of the particular model of car. The more state-of-the-art the car is, the higher will be the rebate rate. When financed in this way, the buyer usually clubs the rebate amount with the amount that he had saved as the down payment. This is always a wise move because it helps in strengthening the confidence of the money lenders as it cuts down on the monthly amount that needs to be coughed up for the purchase. The lenders always analyze a buyer’s down payment abilities and the higher the buyer is prepared to go is directly proportionate to the lenders’ benevolence. For those willing to save up on a bit of money which could be used for other purposes, the 15 to 20% down payment is readily supplied to the dealers. He is then open to any of the new car rebates on offer, and the check is then mailed to his address within 4 to 6 weeks.

Great Ten Car Buying Tips

Jaguar E-Type 4-2
Car Buying Tips
Image by Chris Devers
Quoting from Wikipedia: Jaguar E-Type:

• • • • •

The Jaguar E-Type (UK) or XK-E (US) is a British automobile manufactured by Jaguar between 1961 and 1974. Its combination of good looks, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. A great success for Jaguar, over seventy thousand E-Types were sold during its lifespan.

In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in Daily Telegraph list of the "100 most beautiful cars" of all time.[2] In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.

Contents

1 Overview
2 Concept versions
•• 2.1 E1A (1957)
•• 2.2 E2A (1960)
3 Production versions
•• 3.1 Series 1 (1961-1968)
•• 3.2 Series 2 (1969-1971)
•• 3.3 Series 3 (1971-1975)
4 Limited edtions
•• 4.1 Low Drag Coupé (1962)
•• 4.2 Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)
5 Motor Sport
6 See also
7 References
8 External links

Overview

The E-Type was initially designed and shown to the public as a grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as convertible (OTS or Open Two Seater). The 2+2 version with a lengthened wheelbase was released several years later.

On its release Enzo Ferrari called it "The most beautiful car ever made".

The model was made in three distinct versions which are now generally referred to as "Series 1", "Series 2" and "Series 3". A transitional series between Series 1 and Series 2 is known unofficially as "Series 1½".

In addition, several limited-edition variants were produced:

• The "’Lightweight’ E-Type" which was apparently intended as a sort of follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, one is known to have been destroyed and two others have been converted to coupé form. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors.
• The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Concept versions

E1A (1957)

After their success at LeMans 24 hr through the 1950s Jaguars defunct racing department were given the brief to use D-Type style construction to build a road going sports car, replacing the XK150.

It is suspected that the first prototype (E1A) was given the code based on: (E): The proposed production name E-Type (1): First Prototype (A): Aluminium construction (Production models used steel bodies)

The car featured a monocoque design, Jaguar’s fully independent rear suspension and the well proved "XK" engine.

The car was used solely for factory testings and was never formally released to the public. The car was eventually scrapped by the factory

E2A (1960)

Jaguar’s second E-Type concept was E2A which unlike E1A was constructed from a steel chassis and used a aluminium body. This car was completed as a race car as it was thought by Jaguar at the time it would provide a better testing ground.

E2A used a 3 litre version of the XK engine with a Lucas fuel injection system.

After retiring from the LeMans 24 hr the car was shipped to America to be used for racing by Jaguar privateer Briggs Cunningham.

In 1961 the car returned to Jaguar in England to be used as a testing mule.

Ownership of E2A passed to Roger Woodley (Jaguars customer competition car manager) who took possession on the basis the car not be used for racing. E2A had been scheduled to be scrapped.

Roger’s wife Penny Griffiths owned E2A until 2008 when it was offered for sale at Bonham’s Quail Auction. Sale price was US.5 million

Production versions

Series 1 (1961-1968)

Series I

• Production
1961–1968[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
3.8 L XK I6
4.2 L XK I6

Wheelbase
96.0 in (2438 mm) (FHC / OTS)
105.0 in (2667 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Length
175.3125 in (4453 mm) (FHC / OTS)
184.4375 in (4685 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Width
65.25 in (1657 mm) (all) [5]

• Height
48.125 in (1222 mm) (FHC)
50.125 in (1273 mm) (2+2)
46.5 in (1181 mm) (OTS)[5]

Curb weight
2,900 lb (1,315 kg) (FHC)
2,770 lb (1,256 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

• Fuel capacity
63.64 L (16.8 US gal; 14.0 imp gal)[5]

The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.[7] The cars at this time used the triple SU carburetted 3.8 litre 6-cylinder Jaguar XK6 engine from the XK150S. The first 500 cars built had flat floors and external hood (bonnet) latches. These cars are rare and more valuable. After that, the floors were dished to provide more leg room and the twin hood latches moved to inside the car. The 3.8 litre engine was increased to 4.2 litres in October 1964.[7]

All E-Types featured independent coil spring rear suspension with torsion bar front ends, and four wheel disc brakes, in-board at the rear, all were power-assisted. Jaguar was one of the first auto manufacturers to equip cars with disc brakes as standard from the XK150 in 1958. The Series 1 can be recognised by glass covered headlights (up to 1967), small "mouth" opening at the front, signal lights and tail-lights above bumpers and exhaust tips under the licence plate in the rear.

3.8 litre cars have leather-upholstered bucket seats, an aluminium-trimmed centre instrument panel and console (changed to vinyl and leather in 1963), and a Moss 4-speed gearbox that lacks synchromesh for 1st gear ("Moss box"). 4.2 litre cars have more comfortable seats, improved brakes and electrical systems, and an all-synchromesh 4-speed gearbox. 4.2 litre cars also have a badge on the boot proclaiming "Jaguar 4.2 Litre E-Type" (3.8 cars have a simple "Jaguar" badge). Optional extras included chrome spoked wheels and a detachable hard top for the OTS.

An original E-Type hard top is very rare, and finding one intact with all the chrome, not to mention original paint in decent condition, is rather difficult. For those who want a hardtop and aren’t fussy over whether or not it is an original from Jaguar, several third parties have recreated the hardtop to almost exact specifications. The cost ranges anywhere from double to triple the cost of a canvas/vinyl soft top.

A 2+2 version of the coupé was added in 1966. The 2+2 offered the option of an automatic transmission. The body is 9 in (229 mm) longer and the roof angles are different with a more vertical windscreen. The roadster remained a strict two-seater.

There was a transitional series of cars built in 1967-68, unofficially called "Series 1½", which are externally similar to Series 1 cars. Due to American pressure the new features were open headlights, different switches, and some de-tuning (with a downgrade of twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs from the original triple SU carbs) for US models. Some Series 1½ cars also have twin cooling fans and adjustable seat backs. Series 2 features were gradually introduced into the Series 1, creating the unofficial Series 1½ cars, but always with the Series 1 body style.

Less widely known, there was also right at the end of Series 1 production and prior to the transitional "Series 1½" referred to above, a very small number of Series 1 cars produced with open headlights.[8] These are sometimes referred to as "Series 1¼" cars.[9] Production dates on these machines vary but in right hand drive form production has been verified as late as March 1968.[10] It is thought that the low number of these cars produced relative to the other Series make them amongst the rarest of all production E Types.

An open 3.8 litre car, actually the first such production car to be completed, was tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1961 and had a top speed of 149.1 mph (240.0 km/h) and could accelerate from 0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 7.1 seconds. A fuel consumption of 21.3 miles per imperial gallon (13.3 L/100 km; 17.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £2097 including taxes.[11]

Production numbers from Graham[12]:

• 15,490 3.8s
• 17,320 4.2s
• 10,930 2+2s

Production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Series 2 (1969-1971)

Series II

• Production
1969–1971[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
4.2 L XK I6

Curb weight
3,018 lb (1,369 kg) (FHC)
2,750 lb (1,247 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

Open headlights without glass covers, a wrap-around rear bumper, re-positioned and larger front indicators and taillights below the bumpers, better cooling aided by an enlarged "mouth" and twin electric fans, and uprated brakes are hallmarks of Series 2 cars. De-tuned in US, but still with triple SUs in the UK, the engine is easily identified visually by the change from smooth polished cam covers to a more industrial ‘ribbed’ appearance. Late Series 1½ cars also had ribbed cam covers. The interior and dashboard were also redesigned, with rocker switches that met U.S health and safety regulations being substituted for toggle switches. The dashboard switches also lost their symmetrical layout. New seats were fitted, which purists claim lacked the style of the originals but were certainly more comfortable. Air conditioning and power steering were available as factory options.

Production according to Graham[12] is 13,490 of all types.

Series 2 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Official delivery numbers by market and year are listed in Porter[3] but no summary totals are given.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Series III

• Production
1971–1975

Body style(s)
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
5.3 L Jaguar V12

Wheelbase
105 in (2667 mm) (both)[6]

• Length
184.4 in (4684 mm) (2+2)
184.5 in (4686 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Width
66.0 in (1676 mm) (2+2)
66.1 in (1679 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Height
48.9 in (1242 mm) (2+2)
48.1 in (1222 mm) (OTS)[6]

Curb weight
3,361 lb (1,525 kg) (2+2)
3,380 lb (1,533 kg) (OTS)[6]

• Fuel capacity
82 L (21.7 US gal; 18.0 imp gal)[14]

A new 5.3 L 12-cylinder Jaguar V12 engine was introduced, with uprated brakes and standard power steering. The short wheelbase FHC body style was discontinued and the V12 was available only as a convertible and 2+2 coupé. The convertible used the longer-wheelbase 2+2 floorplan. It is easily identifiable by the large cross-slatted front grille, flared wheel arches and a badge on the rear that proclaims it to be a V12. There were also a very limited number of 4.2 litre six-cylinder Series 3 E-Types built. These were featured in the initial sales literature. It is believed these are the rarest of all E-Types of any remaining.

In 2008 a British classic car enthusiast assembled what is surely the last ever E-Type from parts bought from the end-of-production surplus in 1974.[15]

Graham[12] lists production at 15,290.

Series 3 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Limited edtions

Two limited production E-Type variants were made as test beds, the Low Drag Coupe and Lightweight E-Type, both of which were raced:

Low Drag Coupé (1962)

Shortly after the introduction of the E-Type, Jaguar management wanted to investigate the possibility of building a car more in the spirit of the D-Type racer from which elements of the E-Type’s styling and design were derived. One car was built to test the concept designed as a coupé as its monocoque design could only be made rigid enough for racing by using the "stressed skin" principle. Previous Jaguar racers were built as open-top cars because they were based on ladder frame designs with independent chassis and bodies. Unlike the steel production E-Types the LDC used lightweight aluminium. Sayer retained the original tub with lighter outer panels riveted and glued to it. The front steel sub frame remained intact, the windshield was given a more pronounced slope and the rear hatch welded shut. Rear brake cooling ducts appeared next to the rear windows,and the interior trim was discarded, with only insulation around the transmission tunnel. With the exception of the windscreen, all cockpit glass was plexi. A tuned version of Jaguar’s 3.8 litre engine with a wide angle cylinder-head design tested on the D-Type racers was used. Air management became a major problem and, although much sexier looking and certainly faster than a production E-Type, the car was never competitive: the faster it went, the more it wanted to do what its design dictated: take off.

The one and only test bed car was completed in summer of 1962 but was sold a year later to Jaguar racing driver Dick Protheroe who raced it extensively and eventually sold it. Since then it has passed through the hands of several collectors on both sides of the Atlantic and now is believed to reside in the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)

In some ways, this was an evolution of the Low Drag Coupé. It made extensive use of aluminium alloy in the body panels and other components. However, with at least one exception, it remained an open-top car in the spirit of the D-Type to which this car is a more direct successor than the production E-Type which is more of a GT than a sports car. The cars used a tuned version of the production 3.8 litre Jaguar engine with 300 bhp (224 kW) output rather than the 265 bhp (198 kW) produced by the "ordinary" version. At least one car is known to have been fitted with fuel-injection.

The cars were entered in various races but, unlike the C-Type and D-Type racing cars, they did not win at Le Mans or Sebring.

Motor Sport

Bob Jane won the 1963 Australian GT Championship at the wheel of an E-Type.

The Jaguar E-Type was very successful in SCCA Production sports car racing with Group44 and Bob Tullius taking the B-Production championship with a Series-3 V12 racer in 1975. A few years later, Gran-Turismo Jaguar from Cleveland Ohio campaigned a 4.2 L 6 cylinder FHC racer in SCCA production series and in 1980, won the National Championship in the SCCA C-Production Class defeating a fully funded factory Nissan Z-car team with Paul Newman.

See also

Jaguar XK150 – predecessor to the E-Type
Jaguar XJS – successor to the E-Type
Jaguar XK8 – The E-Type’s current and spiritual successor
Guyson E12 – a rebodied series III built by William Towns

References

^ Loughborough graduate and designer of E Type Jaguar honoured
^ 100 most beautiful cars
• ^ a b cPorter, Philip (2006). Jaguar E-type, the definitive history. p. 443. ISBN 0-85429-580-1.
• ^ a b"’69 Series 2 Jaguar E Types", Autocar, October 24, 1968
• ^ a b c d eThe Complete Official Jaguar "E". Cambridge: Robert Bentley. 1974. p. 12. ISBN 0-8376-0136-3.
• ^ a b c d e f g"Jaguar E-Type Specifications". http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/specifications.php. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
• ^ a b"Buying secondhand E-type Jaguar". Autocar 141 (nbr4042): pages 50–52. 6 April 1974.
^ See Jaguar Clubs of North America concourse information at: [1] and more specifically the actual Series 1½ concourse guide at [2]
^ Ibid.
^ Compare right hand drive VIN numbers given in JCNA concours guide referred to above with production dates for right hand drive cars as reflected in the XKEdata database at [3]
^"The Jaguar E-type". The Motor. March 22, 1961.
• ^ a b cRobson, Graham (2006). A–Z British Cars 1945–1980. Devon, UK: Herridge & Sons. ISBN 0-9541063-9-3.
• ^ a b chttp://www.xkedata.com/stats/. http://www.xkedata.com/stats/. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
^Daily Express Motor Show Review 1975 Cars: Page 24 (Jaguar E V12). October 1974.
^ jalopnik.com/5101872/british-man-cobbles-together-last-ja…

The first thing that you should know when you want to buy a new car is that both you and the dealer are looking to get the better end of the deal. If you don’t learn anything else from this website you will learn how to walk away from the deal with both sides being satisfied.

A good deal is a win, win situation for both parties. Most of the time it is the buyer that leaves unsatisfied.

Nowadays a car is no longer a luxury, but a necessity. You are likely to purchase a new car more than once in your life, so you might as well learn to do it in a way that will make buying the cars less painful.

If you are looking to buy a car you should begin with these tips.

1. You should purchase your new car at or around Christmas time because with everybody buying their Christmas presents, not many of them are looking to buy a new car, and it forces dealerships to up their sales strategies.

Salesmen are more willing to haggle down to your prices to close the deal.

2. Purchasing a car online is becoming a great way to get a new car. Just wait for good rebates and incentives online and shop around.

Print out your information from the best quotes and bring it to the dealer that you are most willing to work with.

Bringing in lower quotes from another company might be your best bet in getting a good deal.

3. You can also get a good deal from July to October because that is the time of year when dealerships are trying to get rid of their inventory to make way for the new models.

4. You should visit http://www.FightingChance.com if you are hoping to find new car prices, dealer incentives, and the best rebate offers.

This site is the first place that you should go for great advice on buying a car. It’s even more informative than the Kelley Blue book. This program for buying new cars can literally save you thousands of dollars.

5. A good place to start when going into a dealership is to bring a copy of your credit score with you.

It can lower your interest rates on your car loan. Your car dealer should not know more about you than you do.

6. You can avoid a common scam that dealerships pull. You will often hear that your financing fell through and that you have to respond by paying more money on your loan.

Don’t believe it. It’s another reason for you to get a copy of your credit score.

7. Another common scam by dealership salesmen is for them to tell you that they have found you a lower rate, but that they want you to re-sign your loan papers.

Usually, that is a downright lie. Once they pull up your financing information, they have the upper hand if you don’t know the details about your credit information.

You can get a copy of your credit information online at http://www.equifax.com for about -. It’s better to pay now than thousands later.

8. Don’t bring in a car for trade in if you still owe money on it.

The dealership rarely pays the rest of the loan on time which will result in you having to pay a great deal of late fees to the bank.

If you do decide to bring a car in that you owe money on, get it in writing from the dealership that they will pay the balance on the car within 10 days.

9. Sometimes a dealership may not have all of your options and must order the car directly from the dealership.

If this happens they will often ask you to pay 0-00 for a deposit on the car.

Try not to pay more than 0 and be sure to pay with a credit card because sometimes the dealership will tell you that there was a price increase on the vehicle and will want more money.

If you pay with a credit card you have room to dispute the amount being taken from you. If you pay by check, you can just consider the money gone.

10. You should never buy a car when you are in desperate need for one because a dealer will see that and take advantage.

You should never wait until an old car is dead before searching for a new one because you should give yourself time to shop around for one and get the best deal possible. Desperation often clouds your judgment.

Article from articlesbase.com

New and Used Car Buying Tips

Please let me present several great questions you should ask oneself if you are thinking of buying a car.

• Are you going to buy new or used car?
• What will be the right vehicle for you personally?
• Wherever should you look for a used car, truck, SUV or minivan?
• What exactly are you searching for when buying a used car?

There are plenty of considerations that might arise when you begin the new or used car or truck purchasing process. Hopefully our tips can make this process somewhat simpler by answering a few questions for you personally.By purchasing a pre-owned car, it can save you a lot of money. A brand-new car depreciates quickly within the very first couple of years and after three years, it can be worth just around seventy percent of the original price. Actually, once you drive the automobile off the lot, your car drastically depreciates in value. Some people will not likely even consider buying a used car because they truly feel they are buying somebody else’s troubles. One of the major causes people tend to buy a new car is to buy one which has never been driven and contains ‘new car’ scent. Some people will never consider investing in a used car simply because feel this can be a waste of money. However, you can find a fantastic deal on the used car when you acquire it at a trusted source.

There are plenty of people that trade their own automobiles in every 3-5 years to get a new car, and this also gives the savvy shopper a chance to get a one-owner used car that may be in great condition. Japanese cars, like Honda, have a good reputation and retain their re-sell value better compared with others when it comes time for you to buying or selling it. Japanese cars have earned a reputation for durability, lasting a long time. With that in mind, even though you purchased a new car or truck in 1996, it could possibly still be in great shape, even though it will not have the same safety features or technology you will definitely get with a new 2011 model.

By buying a used car, you can possibly purchase a automobile that is fully loaded for a low montly installment you might not be able to get if you purchased your car brand-new.

Should you buy a used car from a private seller you may want to purchase a CARFAX report to view the entire vehicle history the seller may not want to disclose. Many used car dealerships will offer you this report free of charge so you know exactly what you are paying for and save you some additional expenses. This CARFAX report will show you many important details, including: any reported accidents, the vehicle maintenance historyreport, the odometer reading, any fire or water damage and the number of previous owners.

You can also buy a great Certified Used car from quite a few dealerships that come with 100,000 miles bumper-to-bumper warranty. In order for a vehicle to be considered Certified it must pass a rigorous 150 point mechanical and appearance inspection.

You will discover used cars at New Car Dealerships, used car dealerships and from private sellers. The majority of people would not consider investing in a house without having a realtor and, just the same, it is not so different when purchasing a used car. I would personally recommend that you purchase a used car from a dealership that is certified or includes thehistory showing it has been well maintained and is accident free.

You can purchase an excellent Certified Honda used car from your local dealership that has been recently thoroughly inspected and includes a bumper-to-bumper extended warranty. If the original driver traded the vehicle into the dealership they will also have the entire maintenance service records on hand. You might be able to find a car sold privately through the original owner or in a new car dealership where it had been traded in. The price of a second hand vehicle is generally higher in the new car dealership. However, paying a higher price may supply you with all the service records for the car.

Should you buy your car at an independent used car dealer many times a cheaper, poor car. You might also purchase a used car directly from the individual owner, but the vehicle will likely not include any warranties plus it would be quite challenging to return it to that owner if you started having problems. If purchased a certified used car with a local dealership, they will right any issues or, in the worst case, take the car back.

S. Adkison is a resident of Texas.  A certified Google Adword specialist, Google Analytics expert, and has 12 years of website design experience.

Article from articlesbase.com

www.uftringautogroup.com http www.jimmccomb.com http www.uftringnissan.com http www.uftringpekin.com Uftring Auto Group Dealer Principal Gary Uftring offers his used car buying tips after many years as an automobile dealer and collector. Tips for buying a used car in Peoria, Illinois!
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Car Buying Tips for Women

Jaguar E-Type 4.2 at Samuel’s in Allston: Nose angle view
Car Buying Tips
Image by Chris Devers
Quoting from Wikipedia: Jaguar E-Type:

• • • • •

The Jaguar E-Type (UK) or XK-E (US) is a British automobile manufactured by Jaguar between 1961 and 1974. Its combination of good looks, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. A great success for Jaguar, over seventy thousand E-Types were sold during its lifespan.

In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in Daily Telegraph list of the "100 most beautiful cars" of all time.[2] In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.

Contents

1 Overview
2 Concept versions
•• 2.1 E1A (1957)
•• 2.2 E2A (1960)
3 Production versions
•• 3.1 Series 1 (1961-1968)
•• 3.2 Series 2 (1969-1971)
•• 3.3 Series 3 (1971-1975)
4 Limited edtions
•• 4.1 Low Drag Coupé (1962)
•• 4.2 Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)
5 Motor Sport
6 See also
7 References
8 External links

Overview

The E-Type was initially designed and shown to the public as a grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as convertible (OTS or Open Two Seater). The 2+2 version with a lengthened wheelbase was released several years later.

On its release Enzo Ferrari called it "The most beautiful car ever made".

The model was made in three distinct versions which are now generally referred to as "Series 1", "Series 2" and "Series 3". A transitional series between Series 1 and Series 2 is known unofficially as "Series 1½".

In addition, several limited-edition variants were produced:

• The "’Lightweight’ E-Type" which was apparently intended as a sort of follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, one is known to have been destroyed and two others have been converted to coupé form. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors.
• The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Concept versions

E1A (1957)

After their success at LeMans 24 hr through the 1950s Jaguars defunct racing department were given the brief to use D-Type style construction to build a road going sports car, replacing the XK150.

It is suspected that the first prototype (E1A) was given the code based on: (E): The proposed production name E-Type (1): First Prototype (A): Aluminium construction (Production models used steel bodies)

The car featured a monocoque design, Jaguar’s fully independent rear suspension and the well proved "XK" engine.

The car was used solely for factory testings and was never formally released to the public. The car was eventually scrapped by the factory

E2A (1960)

Jaguar’s second E-Type concept was E2A which unlike E1A was constructed from a steel chassis and used a aluminium body. This car was completed as a race car as it was thought by Jaguar at the time it would provide a better testing ground.

E2A used a 3 litre version of the XK engine with a Lucas fuel injection system.

After retiring from the LeMans 24 hr the car was shipped to America to be used for racing by Jaguar privateer Briggs Cunningham.

In 1961 the car returned to Jaguar in England to be used as a testing mule.

Ownership of E2A passed to Roger Woodley (Jaguars customer competition car manager) who took possession on the basis the car not be used for racing. E2A had been scheduled to be scrapped.

Roger’s wife Penny Griffiths owned E2A until 2008 when it was offered for sale at Bonham’s Quail Auction. Sale price was US.5 million

Production versions

Series 1 (1961-1968)

Series I

• Production
1961–1968[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
3.8 L XK I6
4.2 L XK I6

Wheelbase
96.0 in (2438 mm) (FHC / OTS)
105.0 in (2667 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Length
175.3125 in (4453 mm) (FHC / OTS)
184.4375 in (4685 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Width
65.25 in (1657 mm) (all) [5]

• Height
48.125 in (1222 mm) (FHC)
50.125 in (1273 mm) (2+2)
46.5 in (1181 mm) (OTS)[5]

Curb weight
2,900 lb (1,315 kg) (FHC)
2,770 lb (1,256 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

• Fuel capacity
63.64 L (16.8 US gal; 14.0 imp gal)[5]

The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.[7] The cars at this time used the triple SU carburetted 3.8 litre 6-cylinder Jaguar XK6 engine from the XK150S. The first 500 cars built had flat floors and external hood (bonnet) latches. These cars are rare and more valuable. After that, the floors were dished to provide more leg room and the twin hood latches moved to inside the car. The 3.8 litre engine was increased to 4.2 litres in October 1964.[7]

All E-Types featured independent coil spring rear suspension with torsion bar front ends, and four wheel disc brakes, in-board at the rear, all were power-assisted. Jaguar was one of the first auto manufacturers to equip cars with disc brakes as standard from the XK150 in 1958. The Series 1 can be recognised by glass covered headlights (up to 1967), small "mouth" opening at the front, signal lights and tail-lights above bumpers and exhaust tips under the licence plate in the rear.

3.8 litre cars have leather-upholstered bucket seats, an aluminium-trimmed centre instrument panel and console (changed to vinyl and leather in 1963), and a Moss 4-speed gearbox that lacks synchromesh for 1st gear ("Moss box"). 4.2 litre cars have more comfortable seats, improved brakes and electrical systems, and an all-synchromesh 4-speed gearbox. 4.2 litre cars also have a badge on the boot proclaiming "Jaguar 4.2 Litre E-Type" (3.8 cars have a simple "Jaguar" badge). Optional extras included chrome spoked wheels and a detachable hard top for the OTS.

An original E-Type hard top is very rare, and finding one intact with all the chrome, not to mention original paint in decent condition, is rather difficult. For those who want a hardtop and aren’t fussy over whether or not it is an original from Jaguar, several third parties have recreated the hardtop to almost exact specifications. The cost ranges anywhere from double to triple the cost of a canvas/vinyl soft top.

A 2+2 version of the coupé was added in 1966. The 2+2 offered the option of an automatic transmission. The body is 9 in (229 mm) longer and the roof angles are different with a more vertical windscreen. The roadster remained a strict two-seater.

There was a transitional series of cars built in 1967-68, unofficially called "Series 1½", which are externally similar to Series 1 cars. Due to American pressure the new features were open headlights, different switches, and some de-tuning (with a downgrade of twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs from the original triple SU carbs) for US models. Some Series 1½ cars also have twin cooling fans and adjustable seat backs. Series 2 features were gradually introduced into the Series 1, creating the unofficial Series 1½ cars, but always with the Series 1 body style.

Less widely known, there was also right at the end of Series 1 production and prior to the transitional "Series 1½" referred to above, a very small number of Series 1 cars produced with open headlights.[8] These are sometimes referred to as "Series 1¼" cars.[9] Production dates on these machines vary but in right hand drive form production has been verified as late as March 1968.[10] It is thought that the low number of these cars produced relative to the other Series make them amongst the rarest of all production E Types.

An open 3.8 litre car, actually the first such production car to be completed, was tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1961 and had a top speed of 149.1 mph (240.0 km/h) and could accelerate from 0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 7.1 seconds. A fuel consumption of 21.3 miles per imperial gallon (13.3 L/100 km; 17.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £2097 including taxes.[11]

Production numbers from Graham[12]:

• 15,490 3.8s
• 17,320 4.2s
• 10,930 2+2s

Production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Series 2 (1969-1971)

Series II

• Production
1969–1971[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
4.2 L XK I6

Curb weight
3,018 lb (1,369 kg) (FHC)
2,750 lb (1,247 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

Open headlights without glass covers, a wrap-around rear bumper, re-positioned and larger front indicators and taillights below the bumpers, better cooling aided by an enlarged "mouth" and twin electric fans, and uprated brakes are hallmarks of Series 2 cars. De-tuned in US, but still with triple SUs in the UK, the engine is easily identified visually by the change from smooth polished cam covers to a more industrial ‘ribbed’ appearance. Late Series 1½ cars also had ribbed cam covers. The interior and dashboard were also redesigned, with rocker switches that met U.S health and safety regulations being substituted for toggle switches. The dashboard switches also lost their symmetrical layout. New seats were fitted, which purists claim lacked the style of the originals but were certainly more comfortable. Air conditioning and power steering were available as factory options.

Production according to Graham[12] is 13,490 of all types.

Series 2 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Official delivery numbers by market and year are listed in Porter[3] but no summary totals are given.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Series III

• Production
1971–1975

Body style(s)
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
5.3 L Jaguar V12

Wheelbase
105 in (2667 mm) (both)[6]

• Length
184.4 in (4684 mm) (2+2)
184.5 in (4686 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Width
66.0 in (1676 mm) (2+2)
66.1 in (1679 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Height
48.9 in (1242 mm) (2+2)
48.1 in (1222 mm) (OTS)[6]

Curb weight
3,361 lb (1,525 kg) (2+2)
3,380 lb (1,533 kg) (OTS)[6]

• Fuel capacity
82 L (21.7 US gal; 18.0 imp gal)[14]

A new 5.3 L 12-cylinder Jaguar V12 engine was introduced, with uprated brakes and standard power steering. The short wheelbase FHC body style was discontinued and the V12 was available only as a convertible and 2+2 coupé. The convertible used the longer-wheelbase 2+2 floorplan. It is easily identifiable by the large cross-slatted front grille, flared wheel arches and a badge on the rear that proclaims it to be a V12. There were also a very limited number of 4.2 litre six-cylinder Series 3 E-Types built. These were featured in the initial sales literature. It is believed these are the rarest of all E-Types of any remaining.

In 2008 a British classic car enthusiast assembled what is surely the last ever E-Type from parts bought from the end-of-production surplus in 1974.[15]

Graham[12] lists production at 15,290.

Series 3 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Limited edtions

Two limited production E-Type variants were made as test beds, the Low Drag Coupe and Lightweight E-Type, both of which were raced:

Low Drag Coupé (1962)

Shortly after the introduction of the E-Type, Jaguar management wanted to investigate the possibility of building a car more in the spirit of the D-Type racer from which elements of the E-Type’s styling and design were derived. One car was built to test the concept designed as a coupé as its monocoque design could only be made rigid enough for racing by using the "stressed skin" principle. Previous Jaguar racers were built as open-top cars because they were based on ladder frame designs with independent chassis and bodies. Unlike the steel production E-Types the LDC used lightweight aluminium. Sayer retained the original tub with lighter outer panels riveted and glued to it. The front steel sub frame remained intact, the windshield was given a more pronounced slope and the rear hatch welded shut. Rear brake cooling ducts appeared next to the rear windows,and the interior trim was discarded, with only insulation around the transmission tunnel. With the exception of the windscreen, all cockpit glass was plexi. A tuned version of Jaguar’s 3.8 litre engine with a wide angle cylinder-head design tested on the D-Type racers was used. Air management became a major problem and, although much sexier looking and certainly faster than a production E-Type, the car was never competitive: the faster it went, the more it wanted to do what its design dictated: take off.

The one and only test bed car was completed in summer of 1962 but was sold a year later to Jaguar racing driver Dick Protheroe who raced it extensively and eventually sold it. Since then it has passed through the hands of several collectors on both sides of the Atlantic and now is believed to reside in the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)

In some ways, this was an evolution of the Low Drag Coupé. It made extensive use of aluminium alloy in the body panels and other components. However, with at least one exception, it remained an open-top car in the spirit of the D-Type to which this car is a more direct successor than the production E-Type which is more of a GT than a sports car. The cars used a tuned version of the production 3.8 litre Jaguar engine with 300 bhp (224 kW) output rather than the 265 bhp (198 kW) produced by the "ordinary" version. At least one car is known to have been fitted with fuel-injection.

The cars were entered in various races but, unlike the C-Type and D-Type racing cars, they did not win at Le Mans or Sebring.

Motor Sport

Bob Jane won the 1963 Australian GT Championship at the wheel of an E-Type.

The Jaguar E-Type was very successful in SCCA Production sports car racing with Group44 and Bob Tullius taking the B-Production championship with a Series-3 V12 racer in 1975. A few years later, Gran-Turismo Jaguar from Cleveland Ohio campaigned a 4.2 L 6 cylinder FHC racer in SCCA production series and in 1980, won the National Championship in the SCCA C-Production Class defeating a fully funded factory Nissan Z-car team with Paul Newman.

See also

Jaguar XK150 – predecessor to the E-Type
Jaguar XJS – successor to the E-Type
Jaguar XK8 – The E-Type’s current and spiritual successor
Guyson E12 – a rebodied series III built by William Towns

References

^ Loughborough graduate and designer of E Type Jaguar honoured
^ 100 most beautiful cars
• ^ a b cPorter, Philip (2006). Jaguar E-type, the definitive history. p. 443. ISBN 0-85429-580-1.
• ^ a b"’69 Series 2 Jaguar E Types", Autocar, October 24, 1968
• ^ a b c d eThe Complete Official Jaguar "E". Cambridge: Robert Bentley. 1974. p. 12. ISBN 0-8376-0136-3.
• ^ a b c d e f g"Jaguar E-Type Specifications". http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/specifications.php. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
• ^ a b"Buying secondhand E-type Jaguar". Autocar 141 (nbr4042): pages 50–52. 6 April 1974.
^ See Jaguar Clubs of North America concourse information at: [1] and more specifically the actual Series 1½ concourse guide at [2]
^ Ibid.
^ Compare right hand drive VIN numbers given in JCNA concours guide referred to above with production dates for right hand drive cars as reflected in the XKEdata database at [3]
^"The Jaguar E-type". The Motor. March 22, 1961.
• ^ a b cRobson, Graham (2006). A–Z British Cars 1945–1980. Devon, UK: Herridge & Sons. ISBN 0-9541063-9-3.
• ^ a b chttp://www.xkedata.com/stats/. http://www.xkedata.com/stats/. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
^Daily Express Motor Show Review 1975 Cars: Page 24 (Jaguar E V12). October 1974.
^ jalopnik.com/5101872/british-man-cobbles-together-last-ja…

For a woman buying a car alone, the experience falls somewhere south of having a root canal on the pleasure scale. Female car buyers often have to endure a subtle – and sometimes not so subtle – discrimination. They find themselves being shown “cute” cars. Salespeople discuss the choice of paint colors rather than the gas mileage. At worst, women are asked if they want to wait for their husbands to arrive before making the big decision. So, how does a woman purchasing a car on her own defend against this sort of behavior? Education. Learn what you need to know before you head to the showroom.

First, decide on the car you want. Consider what you are looking for in a vehicle – size, style, and features. Use the websites of the major car manufacturers to “build” your dream car.

These programs will even given you the sticker price of your ideal vehicle. You can ignore this price during real negotiations, but you’ll have a idea of the general price range of the vehicle.

Still unsure about what you should buy? Look at car comparison websites such as Edmunds and NADA Guides that can help you compare cars side-by-side as well as offer reviews and guides for car buying.

Once you have found the perfect vehicle, it’s time to research the price. Using the internet, you can find out what the dealer’s invoice price is for your car. This is the price you want to work with, as it is the actual dealer cost.

In addition, check to see if there are any incentives available on the car. These can be incentives such as low-interest financing or cash back. There may also be incentives to the dealer from the manufacturer. That means that if the dealer sells a specific model, they receive a rebate. This means that a dealer can sell at or below invoice and still make a profit on the car.

Many websites will even give you information on actual selling prices of similar models in your area. By analyzing this information, you will be able to determine a reasonable sales price for the car you want.

Now that you have found your car and know how much you should reasonably pay, head out to the dealer. You can now negotiate effectively.

When you arrive, make it clear to the salesperson that you know exactly what you want and exactly how much you are willing to pay. In short, there should be very little negotiation. Make your offer and stand firm. You will likely get the usual, “I have to check with my sales manager” runaround.

If the dealer will not meet your price – which you know is reasonable – go to another dealer. In some cases, you can even get dealers to bid against each other. With a little homework beforehand and a little persistence at the dealership, you’ll have a better experience buying a car.

Find the best deal on the auto insurance coverage you need. Visit us today for money-saving tips and receive free quotes for really cheap auto insurance from respected insurance companies.

Article from articlesbase.com

www.carbuyingscams.onlinepromoter.info Dear Friend, The last time you bought a new or used car, did you wonder how good of a deal you really got from your seemingly friendly car salesman? And did you think he was the nicest guy you’d met in a long time? Listen to this The reason your car salesman smiled like a Cheshire cat and treated you like his new best friend isn’t because he’s a kind and caring soul. It’s because he was taking hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars of your hard earned money that he didn’t deserve. You can think of it as legalized thievery. The sad truth is, these guys feast on your ignorance. Before you go any further sign up for my free Scam Alert Newsletter and I will send you my e-book “62 Gas Saving Tips” for free! Get your Free 5-Day Email Course and Discover these Auto Dealership Sales Scams! 1. The “Super Sale” Scam 2. The “Pre Approval” Sale Scam 3. The “Website 00 Free Gift Certificate” Scam 4. The “Credit Union Sale” Scam 5. The “Push, Pull & Drag Sale” & The “Slasher Sale” Scam

Related Car Buying Tips Articles

The Car Buying Tips

Jaguar E-Type 4.2 at Samuel’s in Allston: View up the hood
Car Buying Tips
Image by Chris Devers
Quoting from Wikipedia: Jaguar E-Type:

• • • • •

The Jaguar E-Type (UK) or XK-E (US) is a British automobile manufactured by Jaguar between 1961 and 1974. Its combination of good looks, high performance, and competitive pricing established the marque as an icon of 1960s motoring. A great success for Jaguar, over seventy thousand E-Types were sold during its lifespan.

In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in Daily Telegraph list of the "100 most beautiful cars" of all time.[2] In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.

Contents

1 Overview
2 Concept versions
•• 2.1 E1A (1957)
•• 2.2 E2A (1960)
3 Production versions
•• 3.1 Series 1 (1961-1968)
•• 3.2 Series 2 (1969-1971)
•• 3.3 Series 3 (1971-1975)
4 Limited edtions
•• 4.1 Low Drag Coupé (1962)
•• 4.2 Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)
5 Motor Sport
6 See also
7 References
8 External links

Overview

The E-Type was initially designed and shown to the public as a grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as convertible (OTS or Open Two Seater). The 2+2 version with a lengthened wheelbase was released several years later.

On its release Enzo Ferrari called it "The most beautiful car ever made".

The model was made in three distinct versions which are now generally referred to as "Series 1", "Series 2" and "Series 3". A transitional series between Series 1 and Series 2 is known unofficially as "Series 1½".

In addition, several limited-edition variants were produced:

• The "’Lightweight’ E-Type" which was apparently intended as a sort of follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, one is known to have been destroyed and two others have been converted to coupé form. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors.
• The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Concept versions

E1A (1957)

After their success at LeMans 24 hr through the 1950s Jaguars defunct racing department were given the brief to use D-Type style construction to build a road going sports car, replacing the XK150.

It is suspected that the first prototype (E1A) was given the code based on: (E): The proposed production name E-Type (1): First Prototype (A): Aluminium construction (Production models used steel bodies)

The car featured a monocoque design, Jaguar’s fully independent rear suspension and the well proved "XK" engine.

The car was used solely for factory testings and was never formally released to the public. The car was eventually scrapped by the factory

E2A (1960)

Jaguar’s second E-Type concept was E2A which unlike E1A was constructed from a steel chassis and used a aluminium body. This car was completed as a race car as it was thought by Jaguar at the time it would provide a better testing ground.

E2A used a 3 litre version of the XK engine with a Lucas fuel injection system.

After retiring from the LeMans 24 hr the car was shipped to America to be used for racing by Jaguar privateer Briggs Cunningham.

In 1961 the car returned to Jaguar in England to be used as a testing mule.

Ownership of E2A passed to Roger Woodley (Jaguars customer competition car manager) who took possession on the basis the car not be used for racing. E2A had been scheduled to be scrapped.

Roger’s wife Penny Griffiths owned E2A until 2008 when it was offered for sale at Bonham’s Quail Auction. Sale price was US.5 million

Production versions

Series 1 (1961-1968)

Series I

• Production
1961–1968[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
3.8 L XK I6
4.2 L XK I6

Wheelbase
96.0 in (2438 mm) (FHC / OTS)
105.0 in (2667 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Length
175.3125 in (4453 mm) (FHC / OTS)
184.4375 in (4685 mm) (2+2) [5]

• Width
65.25 in (1657 mm) (all) [5]

• Height
48.125 in (1222 mm) (FHC)
50.125 in (1273 mm) (2+2)
46.5 in (1181 mm) (OTS)[5]

Curb weight
2,900 lb (1,315 kg) (FHC)
2,770 lb (1,256 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

• Fuel capacity
63.64 L (16.8 US gal; 14.0 imp gal)[5]

The Series 1 was introduced, initially for export only, in March 1961. The domestic market launch came four months later in July 1961.[7] The cars at this time used the triple SU carburetted 3.8 litre 6-cylinder Jaguar XK6 engine from the XK150S. The first 500 cars built had flat floors and external hood (bonnet) latches. These cars are rare and more valuable. After that, the floors were dished to provide more leg room and the twin hood latches moved to inside the car. The 3.8 litre engine was increased to 4.2 litres in October 1964.[7]

All E-Types featured independent coil spring rear suspension with torsion bar front ends, and four wheel disc brakes, in-board at the rear, all were power-assisted. Jaguar was one of the first auto manufacturers to equip cars with disc brakes as standard from the XK150 in 1958. The Series 1 can be recognised by glass covered headlights (up to 1967), small "mouth" opening at the front, signal lights and tail-lights above bumpers and exhaust tips under the licence plate in the rear.

3.8 litre cars have leather-upholstered bucket seats, an aluminium-trimmed centre instrument panel and console (changed to vinyl and leather in 1963), and a Moss 4-speed gearbox that lacks synchromesh for 1st gear ("Moss box"). 4.2 litre cars have more comfortable seats, improved brakes and electrical systems, and an all-synchromesh 4-speed gearbox. 4.2 litre cars also have a badge on the boot proclaiming "Jaguar 4.2 Litre E-Type" (3.8 cars have a simple "Jaguar" badge). Optional extras included chrome spoked wheels and a detachable hard top for the OTS.

An original E-Type hard top is very rare, and finding one intact with all the chrome, not to mention original paint in decent condition, is rather difficult. For those who want a hardtop and aren’t fussy over whether or not it is an original from Jaguar, several third parties have recreated the hardtop to almost exact specifications. The cost ranges anywhere from double to triple the cost of a canvas/vinyl soft top.

A 2+2 version of the coupé was added in 1966. The 2+2 offered the option of an automatic transmission. The body is 9 in (229 mm) longer and the roof angles are different with a more vertical windscreen. The roadster remained a strict two-seater.

There was a transitional series of cars built in 1967-68, unofficially called "Series 1½", which are externally similar to Series 1 cars. Due to American pressure the new features were open headlights, different switches, and some de-tuning (with a downgrade of twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs from the original triple SU carbs) for US models. Some Series 1½ cars also have twin cooling fans and adjustable seat backs. Series 2 features were gradually introduced into the Series 1, creating the unofficial Series 1½ cars, but always with the Series 1 body style.

Less widely known, there was also right at the end of Series 1 production and prior to the transitional "Series 1½" referred to above, a very small number of Series 1 cars produced with open headlights.[8] These are sometimes referred to as "Series 1¼" cars.[9] Production dates on these machines vary but in right hand drive form production has been verified as late as March 1968.[10] It is thought that the low number of these cars produced relative to the other Series make them amongst the rarest of all production E Types.

An open 3.8 litre car, actually the first such production car to be completed, was tested by the British magazine The Motor in 1961 and had a top speed of 149.1 mph (240.0 km/h) and could accelerate from 0-60 mph (97 km/h) in 7.1 seconds. A fuel consumption of 21.3 miles per imperial gallon (13.3 L/100 km; 17.7 mpg-US) was recorded. The test car cost £2097 including taxes.[11]

Production numbers from Graham[12]:

• 15,490 3.8s
• 17,320 4.2s
• 10,930 2+2s

Production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Series 2 (1969-1971)

Series II

• Production
1969–1971[3] [4]

Body style(s)
2-door coupe
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
4.2 L XK I6

Curb weight
3,018 lb (1,369 kg) (FHC)
2,750 lb (1,247 kg) (OTS)
3,090 lb (1,402 kg) (2+2) [6]

Open headlights without glass covers, a wrap-around rear bumper, re-positioned and larger front indicators and taillights below the bumpers, better cooling aided by an enlarged "mouth" and twin electric fans, and uprated brakes are hallmarks of Series 2 cars. De-tuned in US, but still with triple SUs in the UK, the engine is easily identified visually by the change from smooth polished cam covers to a more industrial ‘ribbed’ appearance. Late Series 1½ cars also had ribbed cam covers. The interior and dashboard were also redesigned, with rocker switches that met U.S health and safety regulations being substituted for toggle switches. The dashboard switches also lost their symmetrical layout. New seats were fitted, which purists claim lacked the style of the originals but were certainly more comfortable. Air conditioning and power steering were available as factory options.

Production according to Graham[12] is 13,490 of all types.

Series 2 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Official delivery numbers by market and year are listed in Porter[3] but no summary totals are given.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Series III

• Production
1971–1975

Body style(s)
2-door 2+2 coupe
2-door convertible

Engine(s)
5.3 L Jaguar V12

Wheelbase
105 in (2667 mm) (both)[6]

• Length
184.4 in (4684 mm) (2+2)
184.5 in (4686 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Width
66.0 in (1676 mm) (2+2)
66.1 in (1679 mm) (OTS)[6]

• Height
48.9 in (1242 mm) (2+2)
48.1 in (1222 mm) (OTS)[6]

Curb weight
3,361 lb (1,525 kg) (2+2)
3,380 lb (1,533 kg) (OTS)[6]

• Fuel capacity
82 L (21.7 US gal; 18.0 imp gal)[14]

A new 5.3 L 12-cylinder Jaguar V12 engine was introduced, with uprated brakes and standard power steering. The short wheelbase FHC body style was discontinued and the V12 was available only as a convertible and 2+2 coupé. The convertible used the longer-wheelbase 2+2 floorplan. It is easily identifiable by the large cross-slatted front grille, flared wheel arches and a badge on the rear that proclaims it to be a V12. There were also a very limited number of 4.2 litre six-cylinder Series 3 E-Types built. These were featured in the initial sales literature. It is believed these are the rarest of all E-Types of any remaining.

In 2008 a British classic car enthusiast assembled what is surely the last ever E-Type from parts bought from the end-of-production surplus in 1974.[15]

Graham[12] lists production at 15,290.

Series 3 production numbers from xkedata.com[13]: [omitted -- Flickr doesn't allow tables]

Limited edtions

Two limited production E-Type variants were made as test beds, the Low Drag Coupe and Lightweight E-Type, both of which were raced:

Low Drag Coupé (1962)

Shortly after the introduction of the E-Type, Jaguar management wanted to investigate the possibility of building a car more in the spirit of the D-Type racer from which elements of the E-Type’s styling and design were derived. One car was built to test the concept designed as a coupé as its monocoque design could only be made rigid enough for racing by using the "stressed skin" principle. Previous Jaguar racers were built as open-top cars because they were based on ladder frame designs with independent chassis and bodies. Unlike the steel production E-Types the LDC used lightweight aluminium. Sayer retained the original tub with lighter outer panels riveted and glued to it. The front steel sub frame remained intact, the windshield was given a more pronounced slope and the rear hatch welded shut. Rear brake cooling ducts appeared next to the rear windows,and the interior trim was discarded, with only insulation around the transmission tunnel. With the exception of the windscreen, all cockpit glass was plexi. A tuned version of Jaguar’s 3.8 litre engine with a wide angle cylinder-head design tested on the D-Type racers was used. Air management became a major problem and, although much sexier looking and certainly faster than a production E-Type, the car was never competitive: the faster it went, the more it wanted to do what its design dictated: take off.

The one and only test bed car was completed in summer of 1962 but was sold a year later to Jaguar racing driver Dick Protheroe who raced it extensively and eventually sold it. Since then it has passed through the hands of several collectors on both sides of the Atlantic and now is believed to reside in the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray.

Lightweight E-Type (1963-1964)

In some ways, this was an evolution of the Low Drag Coupé. It made extensive use of aluminium alloy in the body panels and other components. However, with at least one exception, it remained an open-top car in the spirit of the D-Type to which this car is a more direct successor than the production E-Type which is more of a GT than a sports car. The cars used a tuned version of the production 3.8 litre Jaguar engine with 300 bhp (224 kW) output rather than the 265 bhp (198 kW) produced by the "ordinary" version. At least one car is known to have been fitted with fuel-injection.

The cars were entered in various races but, unlike the C-Type and D-Type racing cars, they did not win at Le Mans or Sebring.

Motor Sport

Bob Jane won the 1963 Australian GT Championship at the wheel of an E-Type.

The Jaguar E-Type was very successful in SCCA Production sports car racing with Group44 and Bob Tullius taking the B-Production championship with a Series-3 V12 racer in 1975. A few years later, Gran-Turismo Jaguar from Cleveland Ohio campaigned a 4.2 L 6 cylinder FHC racer in SCCA production series and in 1980, won the National Championship in the SCCA C-Production Class defeating a fully funded factory Nissan Z-car team with Paul Newman.

See also

Jaguar XK150 – predecessor to the E-Type
Jaguar XJS – successor to the E-Type
Jaguar XK8 – The E-Type’s current and spiritual successor
Guyson E12 – a rebodied series III built by William Towns

References

^ Loughborough graduate and designer of E Type Jaguar honoured
^ 100 most beautiful cars
• ^ a b cPorter, Philip (2006). Jaguar E-type, the definitive history. p. 443. ISBN 0-85429-580-1.
• ^ a b"’69 Series 2 Jaguar E Types", Autocar, October 24, 1968
• ^ a b c d eThe Complete Official Jaguar "E". Cambridge: Robert Bentley. 1974. p. 12. ISBN 0-8376-0136-3.
• ^ a b c d e f g"Jaguar E-Type Specifications". http://www.web-cars.com/e-type/specifications.php. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
• ^ a b"Buying secondhand E-type Jaguar". Autocar 141 (nbr4042): pages 50–52. 6 April 1974.
^ See Jaguar Clubs of North America concourse information at: [1] and more specifically the actual Series 1½ concourse guide at [2]
^ Ibid.
^ Compare right hand drive VIN numbers given in JCNA concours guide referred to above with production dates for right hand drive cars as reflected in the XKEdata database at [3]
^"The Jaguar E-type". The Motor. March 22, 1961.
• ^ a b cRobson, Graham (2006). A–Z British Cars 1945–1980. Devon, UK: Herridge & Sons. ISBN 0-9541063-9-3.
• ^ a b chttp://www.xkedata.com/stats/. http://www.xkedata.com/stats/. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
^Daily Express Motor Show Review 1975 Cars: Page 24 (Jaguar E V12). October 1974.
^ jalopnik.com/5101872/british-man-cobbles-together-last-ja…

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